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Karachi summers: Easy, breezy and beautiful

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May is a seminal month in Karachi, an intermediary that hints of the pleasures of a South Asian summer. The searing April heat is omnipresent but in late afternoons you can hear the cuckoo’s song that makes it palatable. Since youth, I have heard the melodious sound and to this day it brings back memories of final exams, the never ending wait for summer vacations, gola ganda (ice cones) and all the other things that made summer the most important season for a child. It truly is the sound of Karachi’s summer, a redoubtable counterpart to the robin’s warble that heralds spring or the cries of the south flying birds that welcome winter. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="540" caption="Photo: File"][/caption] Karachi’s summer weather is deliciously fickle, a courtesan whose coquetry and harsh indifference distracts one to distraction but come sundown she opens her charm first with a zephyr of cool sea breeze and then the loving embrace of the night’s quietude. Sultry days give way to ochre, silky dusks which melt into indigo nights and the moon never looks as kindly as it does then. Summers in those bygone days meant mangoes which always tasted better when unripe and stolen from a neighbour’s house. Of course, the green unripe fruit would, through alchemy, transform into the king of fruits to be gobbled at breakfast with piping hot parathas, eaten for lunch with crumbly baisan ki roti and at dinner as dessert with fresh cream. There would be other homemade mango delights such as ice cream, shakes, squash, pickle, and the Amrohvi filfora- a scrumptious concoction of mango pulp, onions, fresh mint, and chillies which is eaten for lunch with buttered bread. There would be mango parties with buckets of iced mangoes and ample utensils and appetite to go around. We would be as bold with our consumption as our tummies would allow. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="540" caption="Photo: AFP"][/caption] Mangoes were a recurring refrain but no less exciting were the summer sports. The dive in the icy pool marked the beginning of vacations and no week would be complete without a pool foray. Nights would be put to good use with cricket. I played out several Imran Khan exploits in my head only to discover a woeful lack of talent. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="540" caption="Photo: Reuters"][/caption] Nonetheless, the dawn halwa puri breakfast would more than make up for any defeats and soon I was making plans for the next match. If it wasn't outdoor sports then it were indoor games. Carom, scrabble, ludo, and chess were fixtures and helped through the lazy afternoons. Monopoly notes would be hoarded in sweaty palms until they fell apart and card sessions would last hours until the inevitable fights over barely concealed cheating or the yelling from elders to quiet down. Summer meant visiting cousins and spending the night at houses of tired but welcoming relatives and even random acquaintances for no reason. It meant having access to summer delights - video games for instance. It was the season for books with Enid Blyton, Roald Dahl, and Dickens - firm favourites. Comic books would be bought by the dozen and guarded and exchanged with all the earnestness of a Wall Street transaction. Comics would be best enjoyed in solitude or possibly around grandparents since they never asked silly questions about powers and costumes. Load shedding was ubiquitous but generators were still a luxury and the hum of the machines would be replaced by the cries of kids on the roads playing games of baraf pani and tag while the elders talked in the candle light or under the glow of emergency lights. Toddlers would swing in crude but effective dupatta hammocks and fall asleep in the serenity whilst listening to a grandmother’s lullaby. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="540" caption="Photo: AFP"][/caption] The doggone days would pile up, the heat would increase and just when you thought that Dante’s inferno is coming to life, the heavens would open and down out everything in a deluge of warm summer rain. The lashing monsoon would wash away the physical and mental grime, leaving souls weightless and lead to splashing in puddles, water games and much revelry. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="540" caption="Photo: AFP"][/caption] The event to mark it all would be the annual beach picnic. Uncles would plan like war generals; mothers would cook to feed entire battalions and the trumpet call would be planned for very early morning. Year after year the deadline to depart would be set and missed with equal regularity. The waves would beckon like sirens and the entire day would be spent getting brown and blissfully wet. We would return late in the evening, more seal than human, temporarily sated and utterly happy. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="540" caption="Photo: AFP"][/caption] Come August you could hear a dirge - the millions of children lamenting summer’s end. School shopping would start and we would start the academic year finding solace in the knowledge that it may seem like an eternity, but we will eventually be welcoming another Karachi summer! Follow Sibtain on Twitter @sibtain_n



A change of guard at Wimbledon

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The tennis world is agog at the return of its prodigal son, Rafael Nadal. He's back from a debilitating injury to reignite his rivalry with Roger Federer. Nadal is arguably the greatest clay court player ever, while Federer is one of the gods of the 'Grass Courts Pantheon' along with Pete Sampras, Rod Laver, and Bjorn Borg. Seeing Nadal head into yet another French Open semi-final, I recall the 2008 Wimbledon classic. The epic finale on the grandest of stages in tennis. When Steffi Graf defeated Martina Navratilova to win Wimbledon 1988, the BBC match commentator announced herald-like,

“The queen is dead, the long live the new queen.”
Who knew those words would be prophetic for what was about to take place two decades later. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] Federer pictured second from the right is joined by former champions Bjorn Borg (left), Pete Sampras (center) and to the far right Rod Laver. PHOTO: AFP[/caption] On July 6th, 2008 the tennis world was in the midst of another revolution. Federer was about to face the first man who beat him in a Grand Slam final. If Federer won Wimbledon 2008, he would become the first man in this Open era to win six straight championships. William Renshaw of England had done that, back in the nineteenth century. More than a century on, history was being re-written and the king seemingly was firmly entrenched on his throne. The year started differently. Novak Djokovic upset the apple cart by beating Federer at the Australian Open. Then started the clay season on which another man ruled supreme. For if Federer was the king of the grass courts, then the clay courts was where Rafael Nadal reigned supreme. He lorded on this surface, blasting away opponents with missile-like forehands and a ferocious base line attack. Roger Federer was his finalist for the French Open 2007 and the Spaniard had won it with ease. In the 2008 French Open, Federer promised more and the final result left the tennis world awestruck. Federer could win only four games and was swatted aside by Nadal, who won the last set 6-0. There were whispers about which none would have even contemplated a year back. Could Nadal become only the third man, besides Bjorn Borg and Rod Laver, to win the French Open and Wimbledon in same year? He would also become the first Spaniard since 1966 to win Wimbledon. For four decades his people had griped that grass was for cows. Now it seemed one of their own was going to conquer the indomitable stronghold of Roger Federer. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="460"] PHOTO: AFP[/caption] Then Nadal went on to beat Djokovic at the Queen’s Club, and then iconic five time Wimbledon Champion Bjorn Borg dubbed Nadal as the favorite for this year’s Championship. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="427"] Photo: AFP[/caption] Federer would not have worried, for was it not that clay was Nadal’s forte just like grass was his? He expressed amazement at the naysayers who were predicting his fall. Dismissing the soothsayers as Ceaser had dismissed the portents of the Ides of March. He started the tournament in inimitable style, dispatching each opponent with aplomb. Nadal was thundering on like a force of nature, though his style could not have been more different. Federer was elegance and finesse personified, Nadal sheer force and brute strength. Then the inevitable happened and the world held it’s breath for one of the most anticipated tennis matches ever. Federer hadn’t dropped a set in his march to the final but he needed to match the doggedness, speed and accuracy of Nadal. He lost the first and in the second took a 4-1 lead only to see it dwindle away as Nadal reeled off five games. The crowd "ooh'd" and "aah'd" at the challenger’s game, while chanting ‘Roger’ and ‘Rafa’ equally as if unsure of whom to back.  Unleashing 100 mph forehands and vicious top spin shots, Nadal proceeded to take control of the match. It seemed the pundits were right and he would prevail in straight sets but the champion was made of sterner stuff. With two sets all it seemed the tide had turned, the momentum with Federer and it would be much like the Wimbledon 2007 final with him winning the fifth set. Nadal had broken down in the locker rooms afterwards; he could not and would not lose this year. Record books were testing the nerves of both the players and the spectators were stretched to a breaking point. Drawing upon every ounce of inspiration the two battled on court and in the deepening darkness of the evening concluded what had become an instant classic. Nadal served for the championship point at 8-7 and the service return from Federer hit the net- the Spaniard sunk to the ground in ecstasy and a long emotional release. At four hours and 46 minutes, it was the longest Wimbledon final ever and it was the stocky challenger from Majorca, Spain who prevailed 9-7; astounding fans and detractors alike. Nadal was overcome with joy, his tears mingled with the rain falling on the grass. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="450"] The new champion sinks to the ground in ecstasy with a long emotional release. PHOTO: REUTERS[/caption] There was a new champion. The king was dead, long live the new king. Read more by Sibtain here.

Andy Murray’s Wimbledon win: Here comes the Son

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So it has finally happened. A Brit has lifted the silver trophy so ardently desired but so out of reach for his fellow countrymen. Churchill is crowing in his grave, the ravens at the Tower of London are dancing in their flight, General Montgomery may just give that famous half-cocked grin, the statue of Nelson at Trafalgar Square seems to be smiling, the unborn future Prince of Wales gave an almighty kick to his bonneted mummy, and the Blessed Isles of the Romans look to be deserving of their epithet.  Andy Murray, perennial bridesmaid to the Federer, Nadal and Djokovic trinity, has nabbed the big one for himself and laid to rest the ghosts of the Great British Hopes, from Tim Henman to Greg Rusedski. Murray, much like Greg who at the start of his tennis career represented Canada before making the leap across the Atlantic, is not exactly cut from the Union Jack like Henman, and while he is probably happier in the Scottish Highlands than the vales of merry old England, only the meanest curmudgeon would deny the British this sporting achievement. The Brits have developed a reputation of two things, a stiff upper lip and being the best losers in world sport. Even though they can claim heritage in many sports, successes have been few and far in between. Unlike their American and Australian cousins who’s a silverware closet groans under the weight of numerous trophies and medals the British, much like Bart Simpson, are under achievers and proud of it. They are football mad but have one title, a win way back in 1966. They invented cricket and most of the game’s traditions trace back to the sporting greens in various shires from Dover to Cardiff, yet the only world title they have is the 2010 T20 WC, a decidedly second tier tournament. Wimbledon is the world’s premier tennis tournament but for 77 years the crowds there have seen only Germans, Swedes, Americans, Australians Spaniards, etc, lifting the trophy. Seeing the pandemonium for the 2005 Ashes Win or the gold medals at last year’s London Olympics only highlights the fact that the Englishman is starved of two things, the sun and sporting prowess. Until now. It has taken a long time in coming. Every Englishman knows the name of the last champion as they would know the names of the Royal Family members. Fred Perry, that languid sporting genius won three Wimbledon Championships in ’34, ’35 and ’36. He stands ready at the All England Lawn Tennis Club in Wimbledon, bronzed, sinewy and immortalised forever with his wins and his life-size statue. While his sporting prowess got him acclaim throughout the world, it would surprise many to know that he was ostracised in his own time and reviled by the class-conscious establishment. Disillusioned, Perry eventually immigrated to the one place all society misfits used to end up in, the US of A, where he joined the Air Force and flew fighter jets in World War II. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="700"]LtoR Andy Murray and Fred Perry. Andy Murray, in 2013, and Fred Perry, in 1934.
Photo: AFP[/caption] Now, in 2013, the gangly lad from Dunlane, Scotland has taken over from his countryman even though he is, like Fred Perry, something of an outsider who has courted controversy in past for his less than patriotic demeanor towards England. It came to a head when he was asked before the 2006 football World Cup of who he wanted to win. His response, “Anyone but England”, showcases the historic baggage of England and Scotland and that here was a Scot who still hadn’t forgotten the Scottish victories at the battles of Stirling Bridge and Bannockburn. That moment marked the low point of his fractious relationship with the English media and fans. Still, a champion is a champion and Andy has taken on the mantle of being the English poster boy with aplomb. So how did he win Wimbledon? The ingredients were always there for Murray. He had the bullet-like shots, the long reach and the serve and volley game so suited for grass, but always seemed to be on fringes of the winner’s circle. It was not easy competing in an era which boasts the Man with the Perfect Game and an unstoppable dynamo who has won 12 Grand Slams on bad knees and a chronic foot problem. Murray did things incrementally, his appointment of Ivan Lendl was a master stroke and the eight-time champion knew what he wanted out of his temperamental ward. Lendl brought his calm to the play and since working with Ivan, Murray’s Angry Young Man persona has made fewer appearances. The US Open title last year was no fluke, Murray had it coming. He is also a lot fitter and does an annual “boot camp” in Miami in the off-season. His superb fitness was evident in the five set comeback victory against Fernando Verdasco in the quarter finals and the way Andy shrugged off any lingering fatigue from that grueling match.  Murray also won the hearts of fans around the world when he showed his sentimental side in a teary post match interview at last year’s Wimbledon Final. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="620"] Federer consoles Murray after his Wimbledon loss in 2012.
Photo AFP[/caption] His emotional “I am getting there” statement got hearts fluttering and his patriotic credentials were cast in iron when he won Olympic Gold for Britain at the 2012 London Olympics and thrashed Roger Federer in the final, the man who had brought him and England to tears a few months back. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="480"] Andy Murray poses with his gold medal at the end of the men's singles tennis tournament of the London 2012 Olympic Games. Photo: AFP[/caption] Now he stands apart from the also-rans and has his name inscribed in gold letters in the honors roll at Wimbledon. The joy of the nation is a sight to be seen and they now have a genuine, dyed in the wool champion. Honors will flow in, a knighthood (he already has an OBE), endorsements, perhaps even a road or two named after him. Toasts will be raised to him and we may see a scowling Andy statue at Murray Hill. Elton John will write a ballad and for a few days the English will forget about the Beckhams and the ovarian lottery winner due in a few months. But nothing will capture the moment of his win in the world’s premier tournament, the thundering applause and the non-stop shouts of “Come on Andy!” They say the English summer is three events, the Lord’s test, Royal Ascot and Wimbledon. This year the summer is complete. Read more by Sibtain here.


When Ramazan became Ramadan: Our infatuation with Arab culture

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Come the sighting of the moon and my inbox, cell phone and social media feed is inundated with greetings of ‘Ramadan Kareem Mubarak’. It’s a common phenomenon and I am not the only one to experience this but it does make me think.

What has happened in the past couple of decades that we have made the shift from Urdu words to decidedly Arabic ones?
If the change was in language as a whole it would make some measure of sense. Languages are of course organic and new words come in but in this case it is not a natural transition but more of a deliberate supplanting of a word that is by all accounts, perfectly legit. I grew up in a time when we called this Islamic month ‘Ramazan.’ It was not a conscious choice, just what the grandparents and elders called it and we were happy in following their legacy. We were also taught that when saying goodbye we should say ‘Khuda Hafiz’ and some families which had immigrated from Uttar Pradesh in India, including mine, were more inclined towards ‘adaab’ as a mode of greeting than salaam. It started changing in the 80s with the PTV news anchor saying ‘Allah Hafiz’ at the end of the program. Some people did notice and talked about it but it was a military dictatorship and the man in charge was a known zealot. ‘It’s a passing trend’, was the general refrain. It was thought that things would go back once the dictatorship was over. How wrong they were. Then I noticed more and more people who were hesitant in replying to my ‘adaab’ with the usual response, ‘jeetay raho’, literally: have a long and blessed life. These were not people who had always used the ‘salaam’, no these were folks who’s fathers, grandfathers, uncles and aunts all had lived and died using the same mode of salutations and greetings. And now they were replying back with ‘walekum adaab’, a rather cumbersome response which was neither here nor there. Then came snide comments about how ‘adaab’ is irreligious. About how it is decadent and a hangover from a previous era which should be consigned to the dustbin of history. About how it was used only to greet Hindus in India and so has no place in an (overtly) Islamic country. With time, most even called it downright blasphemous and refused to acknowledge it. I had reservations with that view. I still do. Why would Sibtain Ahmed, my great-grandfather, a marsiya poet and reciter of some repute, close associate of orator and scholar Rasheed Turabi and as religious a man as anyone I have seen, insist on this ‘blasphemous’ greeting even after immigrating to the ‘Bastion of Islam’ (read Pakistan). For that matter were the ancestors of these objectors decadent, blasphemous, and possibly in cahoots with Hindu extremists? Was my best friend’s grandfather working with the RSS or the VHP? Did they offer human sacrifices for pagan gods? Who can tell in these times? Part of the change comes from the state sponsored change in language and its semantics. Part of it could be the influx of returnees in Pakistan from the Arab countries who in all their time there did not become fluent in Arabic due to their cloistered living style but are still compelled to say Arabic words when it comes to words that are associated with religion. That still does not explain why relatives and friends in the West, nary a tie with Arab soil, would change from their own parents’ ways. Try as I might, I fail to get coherent responses. The rest of the changes have been coming with increasing pace. The same school of thought that frowns upon my ‘adaab’ and ‘Khuda Hafiz’ has a bone to pick with my calling this Islamic month ‘Ramazan’. ‘Ramadan Kareem’, they correct me in a pious tone while rolling their eyes and smiling pityingly at my unholy ways. Iftar has given way to ‘fitr’ and ‘wuzu’ has died at the hands of ‘wudu’.
So we had been mispronouncing these words all these centuries. ‘Yes’, is the prompt response I receive along with a lecture about how better things are now.
And were savants such as Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, Maulana Azad, Nazeer Ahmed, Ghalib, et al also culpable to mispronunciations and astray from the true path? They were I am told. So here we stand; our ancestors were wrong, the thinkers and intellectuals were wrong, the religious leaders were wrong and they are all morally, culturally and linguistically inferior to that PTV newscaster. Zia would have been proud. They say a language dies when you supplant words that carry weightage. 'Ramazan' is one such word, closely associated with our lives because of the changes in lifestyle that accompanies it and its age-old message of love for humankind, simplicity, tolerance, compassion and generosity. The symbiotic nature of the relationship between language and culture has been deeply explored and well established. With the coming of its Ramazan’s Arabised counterpart have come other changes that belie the wholesome nature of the month and clash with my youthful memories of the month when it had no ritual gluttony in the name of fast food all-you-can-eat deals and post-midnight sehris at fancy restaurants. Coincidence? Maybe. [poll id="270"] Read more by Sibtain here or follow him on Twitter @sibtain_n

Nazia Hassan: Remembering our subcontinental princess

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Hendon Cemetery, London NW7 on Holder’s Hill Road is a serene space with the usual poignancy and hush that accompanies cemeteries. There, tucked away among other graves is a simple tomb with a black headstone. “786”, the numerical translation of Bismillah is etched along with this touching epitaph:

“In the loving memory of Nazia Hassan. Loving daughter, sister and mother. Beloved and cherished by millions of people. Died in her youth, August 13, 2000.”
Every word rang true and took me back to July 2000. I was driving my friend and Nazia’s songs were playing on the stereo.
“She is about to die”, he said.
His callous remark was like a jab to my face, sharp and hurtful. On the morning of August 13, I saw the top half of a folded newspaper which showed only her picture, the rest of the news was printed in the unseen part below. I unfolded it with dread and saw the headline, terse and painful: ‘Nazia Hassan Passes Away.’ It has been 13 years since that day and almost 33 since she burst upon the music world in a blaze of sultry lyrics and effervescent beats. “Aap Jaisa Koi (AJK)” was everything the 80s represented. The story is well documented, musician Biddu and the child singer made the “Disco Deewane” album. HMV, the record company, estimated it would sell 25,000 albums. It sold three million albums. Nazia’s youthful good looks, lilting voice and pacey beats caused a sensation and such was the success of ‘AJK’ that she became the youngest winner of a Filmfare award. For a short time the teenaged wisp of a girl from Karachi even supplanted Lata Mangeshkar on the throne of Indian music. Lata’s biographer Raju Bharatan has written about the despair Lata had when the songs of her film Aasha trailed behind AJK for 14 weeks, a cataclysmic event if there was in the life of the reigning queen of melody. She has an incredible story, like out of a penny press novel. Teenage girl finds everlasting fame at a time when it was almost unheard of. It happens now but in this day of social media and pervasive media coverage, stardom it is much easier. Nazia was an international pop icon at 15 with none of that, in a pre-internet time, in spite of a repressive zealot dictator ruling the country, with a controlled media, and at a time with very limited avenues of expression. Nazia was a star but more than that, she was also a part of people’s lives. My sister loved ‘Aap Jaisa Koi’, so much that my parents would play it in the morning to wake her up with. A generation later, family kids cavort to “Telephone Pyar”, or rather “Teen Teen Do Do”, easy for two-year-olds to say. Thinking about Nazia is like going through a montage of memories. I remember when she visited my school as part of her charity work. We were all enamoured, some still are, and when she said she can substitute if our teacher falls ill we started making plans of doing away with the poor lady so Nazia could come every day. These were not just the fantasies of a second-grader, Nazia’s grace and charm had a lasting impact on people of all ages. She had that rare quality; for instance, when she said she would like to meet you again, it felt as if she really meant it. Many cherish chance meetings and a cousin still raves about running into her in London and her readily agreeing to an afternoon tea. Others carry memories of sneaking into a concert, or dancing along on Music 89 or hosting masquerade parties like the one in “Aankhen Milane Wale.” Many males went to their mothers begging to be married to someone like her while the girls wore their hair in the same style. Everyone’s dream teacher, sister, friend; Nazia was a heaven sent means of escape, catharsis from impositions and why shouldn’t she be? She stood in bright contrast to the stifling atmosphere forced by the dictatorship.  The side parted hair, the sparkling, erudite ways made her the perfect symbol of youth and optimism in India and Pakistan who, in spite of their political difference, loved her with equal measure. While her songs touched all ages, it was the youth who lucky enough to enjoy them to the fullest for as Wordsworth said:
Bliss was it in that dawn to be alive, But to be young was very Heaven!
The songs were magic and the videos revolutionary. Juxtaposed to the staid singers on various TV programs stage, Nazia seemed to be the very embodiment of youth, a Diana or Artemis. A Norwegian friend called her Iduna, the Norse goddess who gave Thor, and other gods’ apples of youth. Her songs have been like the mythological age defying apples, taking millions back to their younger years or in my case, childhood. Today- more than ever- we play her music to remind ourselves of our happiest memories and rejuvenate in her ephemeral presence. I cannot quite comprehend why she has this role in our lives. Maybe it is nostalgia that makes us miss her so. Nostalgia, from Greek, is comprised of two root words, “nostos” (return) and “algos” (pain). Thus it literally translates to ‘pain for the returning’ or in the same sense an impossible longing for an immemorial loss. Nazia’s passing just makes this sentimental longing for the happier, simpler past even stronger and her songs hang on memory’s everlasting peg. Keats immortal words may just have been written for Nazia:
Wide sea, that one continuous murmur breeds Along the pebbled shore of memory!
The music stars of Indo-Pak owe her a debt of gratitude for she paved the way for them. India Today nominated her as one of the 50 people who helped change the face of India.
 “She set - well ahead of its time - the personal album trend in India, spawning the likes of Alisha Chinai, Lucky Ali and Shweta Shetty,” it noted.
Biddu stated that Nazia put the subcontinent on the music world’s map and was to the region what ABBA was for Sweden. Intensely patriotic, she turned down the offer of singing “Made in India” which made the career of Alisha Chinai, because she didn’t want to offend her countrymen. Most would give their right hand for such opportunities After an enormously successful career as a singer she joined the Department of Political and Security Council Affairs, UN. At that time I thought she would eventually return home and continue her work but unbeknownst to most, Nazia was very sick. She was not to live long and passed away at 35, to stay forever young and beautiful in our minds. She had been pushing herself hard all these years as if aware of the lasting peace that would come but the end came too soon. Maybe her thoughts were on Edna St Vincent Millay emotive lyricism: My candle burns at both ends; it will not last the night; but ah, my foes, and oh, my friends - it gives a lovely light!

This Independence Day I long for peace with India

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“Panchee, nadiya, pawan kay jhokay, Koi sarhad na inhay rokay, Sarhad insaanon kay liye hai, Socho tum nay aur mainay kya paya insan hokay  - Javed Akhtar (Birds, streams, the flowing breeze No border can stop them Borders were made for mankind Just think,  what did you and I get for being human?)
Monday, 5:45am, December 7, 2012: I am at the India-Pakistan bus terminal in Lahore. It’s bitterly cold and yet the throng of well-wishers outside the gate is ever growing. Some are waving goodbye to their relatives about to embark on the bus for Delhi. Others are crying into their shawls or trying to put on a stoic face for their loved ones who are returning to India. A boy is talking to his Pakistani aunt and can barely speak for his sobs. The air is thick with emotions, elation and grief. Even after two earlier visits I am giddy with happiness, I am about to leave for India. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="675"] The Family together, notice the ubiquitous Ambassador car in the back. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] I have been there a few times. My friends always ask me why I visit so often. Why not Malaysia or Thailand they question. It is not easy to enunciate my reasons; one only has to look around at the people around me to understand why. It’s the sense of belonging and the commonalities that bind me to the town of my forefathers in Uttar Pradesh. It’s the call of my ancestors’ dilapidated havelis, to rediscover my roots and much more. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="400"] Mango orchards. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] The journey began some twenty years back. There was a family wedding with guests arriving from India. I was breathless with excitement. The flight was delayed and I fell asleep. Abba woke me telling me they had arrived and I rushed to see them. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Holding a scorpion in the shirne of Hazrat Shahwilayat patron saint of Amroha. The scorpions are sacred and don't sting. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] As soon as I came into the room, previously unseen uncles, aunts and cousins swept me in their arms. I realised then that these are my people, people who are far away from me, but who love me like their own. I have never met them nor will I be meeting them often but they will be a part of my days, my conversations, my future plans and my family occasions. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="400"] No trip was complete without a visit to the Qutb Minar. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] 8:00am, December 7, 2012: The bus is crossing the Wagah border. It’s difficult to believe that these two gates and the few meters of land between them causes so much grief to millions of people on both sides. There are subtle differences. The signs are in Hindi and the bearded officer is wearing a Sikh turban but what matters? Surely, the founding fathers on both sides would not have imagined that this border would prove to be so obdurate. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] My parents in front of India Gate Delhi. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] Yet the border with its menacing walls and capricious gates is there. What the partition was meant to be or what could have been had it not happened is a futile debate. Oceans of ink could be bled on the subject but the fact is that there is no way of undoing what was done. Even so, four wars, countless skirmishes, jingoistic politicians and hard liners on both sides cannot change the fact that for thousands of years this was one land with one people. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="675"] With my parents and sister in Delhi's Lal Qila. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] For eight centuries the Muslims lived here absorbing culture and adding their own blend to the tapestry called Hindustan - Hindustan, named by the Arab traders, meaning land of beauty - Hindustan, the golden bird of riches for which no less a personage than Iqbal wrote these immortal words:
Saray jahan se acha, Hindustan hamara (Better than the world, Is our Hindustan)
Sadly, such hauntingly beautiful imagery is ignored. The political issues faced by the two countries are difficult but not insurmountable. Countries are made, nations get broken, and wars are fought but as history has shown, the commonality of interests and the desire for peace wins out. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Blessing a groom the old way with ubtan and loads of love. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] England and France, Russia and America, Germany and France, China and Japan and so many more were all at one point bitter enemies but now exist together at best in perfect harmony and at worst with at least modicum of stable relationship. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="640"] As unbelievable as this may sound but a familiar sight in Delhi. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] Sadly, India and Pakistan don’t see eye to eye in spite of a shared language, architecture, food, music, entertainment, ceremonies, traditions, clothing and norms. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Basking in the winter sun of Amroha UP and company of Indian relatives. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] 8:00pm, December 7, 2012: I am 40km from Delhi and the roads now look familiar. The excitement of travellers is detectable and they are peering out of windows. A middle-aged gentleman in front of me is going after 27 years and even though he is grinning I can make out that his cheeks are wet. He tells me of rejected visas and numerous visits to the Indian consulate. All his relatives are coming to receive him. His mother, a sister and two brothers will not be among them. They passed away in the midst of a long gap of his visits a few years back. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="337"] My father taking part in a traditional procession. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] There is more binding us than keeping us apart. M Rafi, Dilip Kumar and Shahrukh Khan are loved on both sides. Pakistanis are just as fond of Kishore Kumar and Jagjit Singh as anyone. Nazia Hassan recorded her biggest hit in India and sang for several movies. Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, Imran Khan and Shahid Afridi were swamped with fans on both sides of the border. Sadequain painted in India, Kaifi Azmi recited poetry here. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Artist Sadequain reading a marsiya in Amroha UP- 1984. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] Pakistanis, travel to Hyderabad and Bangalore for medical reasons and come back with glowing tales of hospitality. When the Indian cricket team visited Pakistan in 2003 the restaurant owners refused to charge them. In Pakistan saying you are a visiting Indian means discounts at shops and stories of common backgrounds. Sadly, ulterior motives and weak resolve by the powers that be stall peace progress at every turn. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="337"] Birds in my ancestors' home; no border bars their way. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] 8:00am, January 2, 2013: I am almost at Pipri, two hours from Delhi back to Lahore. The crying of the young man next to me has subsided. He talks about his relatives who had come to say goodbye and how one of them gave him his shawl, his only protection against the frigid weather, just because he had commented on its workmanship. He tells me about how a visa rejection made him so desperate that he actually contemplated crossing the border illegally. Mind you, he was not a mindless fanatic rather an executive in a telecom company. I couldn’t help but marvel at his stories and found reflections in the frenzied yearnings of others. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="640"] Another visit another goodbye My grandmother is 2nd from left with my sister in her lap. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] When will Pakistan and India relations normalise? When will I simply walk across Wagah and travel across the length and breadth of India? [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Cycle rickshaws economical and fun. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] I don’t know but I have hope that eventually the common bonds of love, culture and mutual interests will win out and the dark stories of rejected visas and border disputes will be washed away by the sunny smiles and tears of joy of loved ones. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="640"] My first visit in 1982 I am the first infant from right and wearing a white sweater. Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption]

Javed Miandad or Hanif Mohammad: Who is Pakistan’s best batsman?

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The Karachi Parsi Institute lies in the heart of old Karachi. It is hallowed ground, a place where history was made some fifty-four years back. On a sultry Karachi afternoon with a few thousand spectators in attendance, Hanif Mohammad crossed Sir Donald Bradman to record the then-highest first class score of 499, a record which stood for thirty-five years. The swaying trees witnessed much but nothing more precious than that nugget.   It was there, in the KPI Cricket ground where I raised the question of who is the greatest ever Pakistani batsman. In the ensuing debate the names of Zaheer, Majid, Inzamam, Anwar, Yousuf and Asif Iqbal came up as the best batsmen for Pakistan. Disagreements abounded, but eventually everyone agreed on two names between which we must decide, names which represent the different eras of Pakistan cricket: Hanif Mohammad and Javed Miandad. Irresistible force versus immovable object' The two greatest batsmen from Pakistan and indeed all-time greats were not quite cut from the same cloth. Prodigiously gifted and precocious, the one thing they had in common was the dogged pursuit of success and an endless appetite for runs. Hanif was the gentleman of the old school who went about his business with quiet resolve and the temperament of a Himalayan glacier. Immovable, resolute, impregnable. It could be his upbringing in the serene surroundings of pre-partition Junagadh and the uncountable hours of practice on his bungalow’s terrace that gave Hanif his immense powers of concentration. Javed learned his cricket in the rough-and-tumble world of road cricket and honed his game to become a street fighter in cricketing whites. His abrasive comebacks, panther-like running, swooping upon the cricket ball and tenacity in adversity spoke volumes about the way the game is played in innumerable streets of Pakistan. A mustachioed maharaja, he lorded over the opposition and in his pomp gave no quarter nor expected any. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="350"] Pakistani Cricketer Hanif Mohammad. PHOTO: Cricinfo[/caption] Vanguard of the willow-wielders Statistics bewilder and confound. AH Kardar’s “find of the decade”, Javed had a century at debut, the youngest player at the time to do so. He soon became the youngest batsman to score a double, a record held by George Headley for 47 years. Although not from the classical mold, he had all shots in the book and then some. His aggregate of 8,832 Test runs is a Pakistani record. His 23 centuries and 43 fifties were national records, until broken by Inzamamul Haq. His Test batting average never dropped below 50 and 52.57 is highest for Pakistani batsmen, as are his six double centuries. Javed was instrumental in many of the greatest moments of Pakistan cricket. Test wins in England and India in ‘87, drawn series in West Indies in ’88, World Cup ’92, all bear the stamp of Javed's flashing blade. Then there is the small matter of the last ball six in Sharjah. The innings was a symphony of brutal hits and deft touches and ushered in an era of Pakistani domination over India until Misbah’s miscue in the 2007 World T20. Iftikhar Ahmed’s words “1 ball left, four runs required, …and it’s a six!” are seared upon an entire generation of cricket fans and many reprise it in fantasies. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Dennis Lillee and Javed Miandad clash. PHOTO: Cricinfo[/caption] Man of crisis But if Javed was a master class in snatching victory from the jaws, nay the very innards of crushing defeat, Hanif was a maestro of the rear guard action that would make King Leonidas proud. One of the most exciting things in Tests is a team fighting to save a test match. Think Akmal and Razzaq in Mohali 2006, Brett Lee and McGrath in Old Trafford in 2005 Ashes or Faf Du Plessis’ back-to-the-wall innings against Australia in Adelaide and you realize that a team fighting for survival makes for frightfully compelling cricket. In Bridgetown, Barbados, 1958 Pakistan faced a deficit of 473 runs with over three and a half days of the match to go. Let those numbers sink in. Run your thoughts over the mountain of runs, an eternity to play, searing heat, uncovered pitches, foreign conditions, moving ball, a fast ball attack to rival any, no limit to bouncers and minimal protective gear. In this crisis to end all crisis cometh the man who was to break several records over the next 16 hours and 39 minutes of flinty batting. Legend says that a man perched on a palm tree fell down, broke his leg, had it put in a cast and came back to the ground only to watch Hanif bat on and on. He also broke the record for longest innings and runs scored. Hanif’s record making vigil was only a part of his exploits. In the Lord's Test of 1967, Pakistan were in familiar self-destructive territory at 99 for six in reply to England's first innings 369 when Hanif entrenched himself for nine hours and only ended his stay at 187 when he ran out of partners while single-handedly dragging Pakistan to 354. The writing was on the wall when he announced himself in Pakistan’s very first Test with a 195 minute 20 to draw the match. His first Test century came in a relatively spry nine hours and in Pakistan’s first test against Australia he made 104 and 93 to save his team from certain defeat. In those early days, with no live TV coverage and the barest of media exposure, he seemed like a demi-god hewn out of granite who could face up to the lumbering titans hurling lightning bolts at him all day long. Indeed, when Bradman met him after his exploits in Australia he expected a giant of a man and was pleasantly surprised to see a diminutive genius with a similar physique. Bradman promptly named him ‘Little Master’ and though there have been a few who have been given that appellation, the 5 feet 6 inch wall of unyielding mind and flesh deserves it the most. In by a whisker In the end it comes down to similarities. Both were named Wisden Cricketer of the year, Hanif in 1968 and Javed in 1982. Both are among the four Pakistanis who have been inducted in the ICC’s Hall of Fame. They played for Karachi and had a testy relationship with their captains. Their batting styles and on field aura may have differed, but both had the same fiery competitive spirit and a never-say-die attitude. Many a cricketing fan would want them both in their dream team for with Hanif you couldn’t lose a match and with Javed you knew you would win. My vote goes to Hanif purely because of the lack of support he had in his time. Javed had the pantheon of Pakistan batting in his corner, artists such as Majid, Zaheer, Asif Iqbal, Wasim Raja to back upon. Hanif, was often the last man on the burning deck and all the remained between Pakistan and ignoble defeat.


Is Roger Federer truly the ‘Greatest of All Time’?

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It has been the year of comebacks so far; Justin Timberlake and our own prime minister would attest to that. There are fewer sights more exhilarating than a stirring rise of someone written off. Such a sight was found at Flushing Meadows in the last US Open final, as Rafael Nadal wrote another winning chapter in what is becoming a saga of the finest kind.  Nadal, while battling weak knees and a congenital foot condition, added another US Open crown to his collection, bringing his tally to 13 grand slams. He now stands just one behind Pete ‘Pistol’ Sampras and well ahead of legends such as Bjorn Borg, Rod Laver and Ivan Lendl. When I started watching tennis, players like Boris Becker and Stephan Edberg ruled the roost. A blonde American named Andre Agassi was bringing in his own style of glam tennis and soon became a favourite. It boggles the mind that Nadal, at 27, is streets ahead of these players in terms of titles and career wins. Two men stand before him. Sampras, at 14 grand slam titles, will soon be a speck in the rear view mirror. Nadal can play on for a few more years and Roland Garros (French Open) is his personal fiefdom. It can be safely assumed that he will pass Sampras swiftly. However, the bigger challenge still stands for Nadal — the 17 grand slams won by Roger Federer. There was a time when such thoughts would not even be considered, let alone uttered. Federer’s fans, and a passionate bunch they are, have been lighting candles and sticks since he won a string of Wimbledon Championships. The Swiss has a voracious appetite, and hapless prey such as Leyton Hewitt and Andy Roddick were joyously chewed, gulped and digested by him. However, one needs to examine the evidence. Federer is not the greatest player of all time; he is not even the greatest player of his generation. He happens to have a silken game, and watching him play is akin to watching a ballet, albeit a mechanically saccharine one. He has lorded over the grass courts as few have or ever will, and his career grand slam proves that he can compete, though not dominate, on all surfaces. His clay court game is good enough to win him a French Open, something Sampras, for all his prodigious skill, could never come close to, but the caveat is that Federer did not beat Nadal to win his solitary French Open crown. Federer dominated the first half of the past decade. He barely broke a sweat against the likes of Marat Safin and Mark Philippoussis. Federer won twelve titles from the years 2003 to 2007. The next five came in 6 years, 2008-2013, what many call the “golden era” of tennis. We can narrow the numbers even more. Federer won 15 Grand Slams in the past decade. However, he has won only two since 2010. A big cause of this slowdown is Rafael Nadal. Federer has faced Nadal across the net 31 times, with Nadal winning more than twice the times Federer won. Of these 31 match ups, eight have been in Grand Slam finals, and Nadal vanquished him on six occasions, one of them being that Wimbledon final in 2008. Then there is the small matter of the Davis Cup, a tournament that has its own prestige. Rafa has won the Davis Cup 4 times, Federer none. Rafa has a record breaking 26 Masters Titles, Federer 21. Nadal has also taken gold for the singles tournament at the Olympics, Federer’s best is silver. Rafa is five years younger and seems indestructible, bad knees or not, while Federer slips into wretched decline. Nadal’s winning percentage at 88.14% is superior to anyone of his era and went on to a whopping 98.33% at the French Open. For those who discount Nadal wins as being clay heavy, they should remember that almost half of Federer’s wins are from grass. The argument is facetious in any case; tennis is tennis, whether played on clay or grass. Those who clamour to call Federer the “Great of All Time” seem to forget that the doubles game is also part of the sport, in which Federer has little significance. Comparing players from different eras is always tricky. Borg played against legends like John McEnroe and Jimmy Connors and retired at 26 with 11 Grand Slam Titles. He won 41% of the Grand Slam tournaments he entered, when playing single. His excellence was not limited to any surface and out of the 735 matches Borg played, he won 608 of them — a winning percentage of 82.72%. Tennis fans should realise that there is more to the game than Grand Slam Tennis. Meanwhile, Nadal pounds on. His winning record is superior against every player in the top 25, including the members of the Big Four and the evidence is quickly accumulating. Federer  is a great tennis player and has his own place in tennis history, but is he the Greatest of All Time? Hardly.



Zubaida Khanum’s voice will live on forever in our hearts

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Getting stuck in Karachi’s downtown traffic jam in the month of June is never pleasant and that jam was a brute. After an hour in the searing heat and the never ending snarl of cars, bikes and rickshaws I was on the verge of a breakdown when from the car radio came Zubaida Khanum’s lilting voice. The song was ‘Masti mein jhoom jhoom re’ from Noor Jehan’s classic ‘Koel’ and I was transported from the inferno to an idyll-like place because of the mellifluous song. The song, much like much of Zubaida Apa’s work, represented so much. It harked back to the golden age of Pakistani movies and great playback singing. It was a time when beautiful voices and vastly talented composers came together in a confluence of magical melody. Singers like her and the legendary Noor Jehan ruled the radio airwaves and many of the elderly I spoke to, recalled being glued to their transistor radio hoping to catch a tune. The song also reminded me of my youth when Pakistani classics were aired regularly on Pakistani channels and we would stay up till late to watch them. Then bleary eyed, we would go to the market the very next day to buy cassettes that would be played in stereos until they fell apart. We were only following the previous generation who would watch these movies, listen to Zubaida Khanum’s siren-like voice and then make a beeline to the nearest music store to buy an LP disc. The more adventurous ones would head to a fancy establishment offering cabaret or live entertainment where her hit songs would be either sung or performed to. When the news of her recent demise was reported it seemed another thread to the memories of bygone days, of many people’s youth, snapped and Pakistan had lost one of its greatest singers. Zubaida Khanum who passed away recently at age 78 in Lahore was not from a family of musicians. Her family left Amritsar and after partition, and fortunately for music lovers, settled in Lahore. Zubaida Apa was passionate about singing and pursued her passion to the fullest. Her first foray in the film world was the 1951 hit ‘Billoo’ and she achieved stardom through her rapturously received songs in ‘Shehri Babu’. Her melodious voice and Rashid Attres’ music composition set the stage for a truly memorable career in playback singing. What followed then was a veritable feast for the senses with her songs coming thick and fast. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x166o6d_zubaida-khanum-profile_news[/embed] ‘Kaise kahoun mein alvida’ and ‘Balam tum haar gaye jeeta mera pyar  from the 1956 smash hit ‘Baghi’ lit up the music world and gave voice to millions of lovelorn voices. The movie featured actors Sudhir and Musarrat Nazir and was directed by Ashfaq Malik. It was also the first movie in Pakistan that had songs by music director Rehman Verma, whose nous combined with Zubaida Khanum’s voice to produce instant classics. 1959 was the year in which director Khurshid Anwar came out with cult classic ‘Koel’ and although most of the songs were by Noor Jehan, Zubaida Khanum was able to hold her own with the two gems ‘Masti mein jhoom jhoom re’ and ‘Ho dil jala na dil wale’. The songs were mostly filmed leading actresses such as Musarrat Nazir and Sabiha, and for millions represented the language of love and courtship. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x121ff0_zubaida-khanum-dil-jala-na-dilwale-koel-urdu-hd-high_shortfilms[/embed] Many a family elder recall these songs being sung as dedications at various functions in hopes of a returned favour. Some still carry those hopes. Others expressed a fervent desire to arrange a musical evening dedicated to Zubaida Khanum songs, in an attempt to relive her glory days and their own which in many ways were tied to her songs. One such song is ‘Aaye mausam rangeelay suhane’ from the 1957 movie ‘Saath Lakh’ which is the mainstay of every wedding ‘ratjagah’ in my family. The event takes place shortly before the wedding and the entire night is spent in singing classic film songs by Mohammad Rafi, Noor Jehan and many other Pakistani and Indian singers. ‘Aaye Mausam’ was in fact the first Zubaida Khanum song I heard as a child and the ladies of the house take great pride and joy in singing it en masse. In fact, it is usually the grand finale of the night and the last notes end just before the start of the call to morning prayers. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x78iz2_aaye-mausam-rangeele-suhane-pakista_music?search_algo=2[/embed] Zubaida Khanum sang with a maestro’s skill and carried the tunes with aplomb whether it is a sprightly ‘Mera nishana dekhe zamana’  or a soulful ‘Kiya hua dil pe sitam’ Like all great artists her repertoire extended to well beyond one aspect and she lent her voice to Punjabi songs as well as folk tunes. There is the naat or paean ‘Shaahe-e-Madina’  which is sung at the milads and religious events, not just in my family or community but in millions of homes around the world. The naat was first sung by Zubaida Khanum and though has been reprised by many others, it has yet to be sung with the same passion and skill as when Zubaida Apa performed it. Through her songs, she is an integral part of our joys and precious moments as I imagine she would have wanted to become. The transient world may have lost her charming presence but the interminable world of music is still bright with her songs and always will be.


Google can envision Pakistan-India harmony in less than 4 minutes…can we?

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Regarding India-Pakistan relations, Sir Walter Scott in his poem “Lochinvar” captured it the best: “Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide” Replace the river Solway with Indus or Ganges and one gets an idea of the ebb and flow of India-Pakistan relations. I first learnt of it through the most obvious of sources, Indian movies. We were watching a cliché with the usual “dushman mulk sazish” storyline when came the long advertisements and movie reviews that would be a permanent feature of the video cassettes. This was sometime after the Babri Mosque incident and relations between the two states were crumbling. Among the various real estate adverts and “geet malas” was a message from leading Indian actors who were promising to come to Pakistan soon for a peace performance. Among those were Amjad Khan, Aamir Khan, Sri Devi and various others. That in many ways represented the dichotomy of India-Pakistan relations, love and hate both meted out in portions and their adherents depending on which school of thought you belong to. This is not to deny the real feelings of mutual belonging denizens on both sides. In a previous article, I had written about the commonalities between the two countries, the hopes and desires people feel for enduring peace between India and Pakistan. These feelings have been beautifully captured in the latest Google advertisement that seeks to tune into them. [embed width="620"] http://vimeo.com/79286715[/embed] The three minute and a half minute video is titled “Reunion” and seeks to show how the search engine is good enough to traverse time, space and fraught political relations to bring two long-lost friends together. The ad is based on a series on poignant scenes and shows revolving around the friendship of two boys, Baldev and Yusuf, who were separated at partition. It then goes on to explains how the two friends are brought together by their grandchildren who use Google searches to first track down the clues given by their grandfathers in reminiscing sessions. The granddaughter gets in touch with the grandson on the Pakistani side who then trawls Google to find out about visa procedures and eventually leads his grandfather to his Indian friend to end in an emotional reunion in India. The video which aired a few days back went viral on social media and the internet in general. It has notched up more than two million hits on YouTube alone since it was posted on Thursday, November 14, and has thousands of Facebook shares, comments and likes. People have been moved to tears and have posted emotive messages on Google’s official Facebook page about renewed hopes for improved relations between the two neighbours. Among them is this comment by Akshaya Aradhya,

“Google brought nations together in three minutes and 32 seconds. The politicians of both countries couldn’t do this in 66 years.”
Pakistanis for Peace said,
“Wonderful campaign highlighting all the similarities and shared experiences instead of the differences”.
On another front, Facebook user Sher Khan posted,
“I am a Pakistani. And I love India. Peace.”
Twitter was filled with similar emotions: https://twitter.com/nickschifrin/status/400957068234227712 https://twitter.com/fursid/status/401465322722836481 https://twitter.com/rustybrick/status/400620326645948416 https://twitter.com/fispahani/status/401358315260608512 https://twitter.com/samishah/status/400792521141280769 https://twitter.com/tallstories/status/400678467886260224 The Google advertisement is but one of many TV and online campaigns that have tried to address the issue but have been unable to make real dents in the tough hide of Byzantium policies and realpolitik. The ad I saw in the Indian movie transmission was but the first of many I have seen over the years. Recently there was another commercial by a Pakistani spices company which shows a senior actress reminiscing about her loved one across the border and how they would eat their favourite delicacies together. Inspired, she whips up some goodies and takes the Lahore-Delhi train to surprise her loved ones with her presence and delicious foods prepared by the spice brand. https://twitter.com/tribuneblogs/status/402730301371068416 Salman Ahmed and Shubha Mudgals’ duet “Ghoom Taana” was a massive hit and also dealt with the issue of a Pakistani male (Salman Ahmed) taking remembrances across to his ancestral home in Patiala, Punjab where he is heartily welcomed by the Indian family and even wins over the somewhat frosty granddaughter (Nandita Das) of the Indian gent. https://twitter.com/tribuneblogs/status/402728999295537152 The “Aman Ki Asha” peace campaign being conducted by two leading media groups of India and Pakistan has also produced several poignant ads and videos that promote peace and friendship between the two estranged neighbours. Among these are, “Radio Farmaaish”, “Restaurant and Passport”, “Delhi Haat”, “Indo-Pak Cricket”, and more. https://twitter.com/tribuneblogs/status/402729772465152000 https://twitter.com/tribuneblogs/status/402730624785461250 “Radio Farmaasih” or “Radio Requests” shows how the border separates people who share a love for music. The men on the Pakistani side get signals from an Indian radio station and unable to call the station themselves, use a series of actions to gesture to their friends across the border to indicate the song they want to request the Indian station to play. Sadly, emotional campaigns and messages of love and peace have not been able to shake the powers-that-be. The Google ad showed the Pakistani grandson simply search for the procedures and Lo and behold! He is next seen departing for India. Except, it is never as simple as that. As someone who has gone through the visa process, I can attest that it is notoriously difficult for applicants on both sides and getting progressively more arduous each year. An American national can apply for a visa that is valid for up to ten years but Pakistanis have to go through acres of red tape and get an Indian national to send them a letter of sponsorship and many other official documents. The applicant is only allowed to apply for selected cities, which in the new Indian topography means serious imbalances. For instance, Delhi has expanded to abut cities such as Ghaziabad. While some relatives live in Delhi others have moved to the latter which means I have to apply for both cities, even though it’s all one city for all practical purposes. Even after all this the visa is still not guaranteed and if one does get it, it is usually a “police reporting” visa which means you have to file an “entry” and “exit” at each city you visit. Indian citizens who want to visit Pakistan don’t have it any easier. Peace efforts are taken up by civil groups but their hopes are dashed soon in an all too predictable pattern. Besides the obvious pain felt by those who have families and loved ones on each side, the visa and travel restrictions are an actual deterrent in economic progress. Considering the size of active populations and academic, trade, tourism and labour opportunities, it makes eminent sense to have a more malleable visa regime. Consider a market of almost a billion and a half people and you get a sense of the missed opportunities. The founding fathers never envisioned the border to be as obdurate as it has become and one hopes that the civil society and governments of both countries do not falter in this regard and brings about a much needed change in India-Pakistan political policies and relations.

Ancholi blasts: When will we remember that the white in Pakistan’s flag represents minorities?

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Another bomb blast; another attack on the Shia community. The blast in Ancholi, Federal B Area was so loud that my windows shook and the children woke up even though I live miles away. I shudder to think what must have happened to those near its epicentre. I have walked in those streets, bought things from the stores now destroyed, spoken to the residents in years past and played cricket with one of the dead victims. Now it has been reduced to rubble and dust, and become another statistic in the growing litany of acts of violence against a besieged minority. The true measure of a nation in many ways is how it treats its minorities and those it is meant to protect. It is fair to say that Pakistan has completely failed in this respect. The Shia community have been the target of persecution and even outright genocide. According to reports, some 5, 000 people have been killed in sectarian violence in the last two decades with the majority of them being Shias. More than 700 Shia Hazaras have been killed since 2001. In 2012 alone, more than a hundred members of the Hazara community, out of a total of over 400 Shias, were targeted in various acts of sectarian violence. Many of these were dragged off buses en masse and killed while on pilgrimages to Shia holy sites in Iran. Pakistan has never been the bastion of communal rights that its founder, Mohammad Ali Jinnah, had wished it to be. He unequivocally expressed this desire in his speech before the Constituent Assembly of Pakistan on August 11, 1947. Jinnah himself was a Khoja Shia who married a Parsi lady from one of Bombay’s most modern families and whose sister led a very public life. His speech and the utter disregard shown to it by Pakistan’s politicians after Jinnah’s death are well documented. What baffles most people is how it came to this? How could a country betray the vision laid out by its creator so quickly? The dream of communal harmony and benevolent secularism received the first blow on March 12, 1949 in the Objectives Resolution – a mere six months after the death of Jinnah and less than two years since the speech of August 11. The resolution was then incorporated into the constitution of the country and changed the nature of the country to an Islamist state in which the head of State could only be a Muslim, setting the nation on a slippery slope which becomes steeper every year. The rest of course, was done by the 1977 coup, funding of jihadi groups, use of hardliners as ‘strategic assets’, and capitulation of the state. There is no doubt that Islam was founded in a multi-ethnic and religiously diverse society and from the very beginning men and women of other faiths played a role in Islamic history. Neither the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), nor his followers practiced the form of persecution carried out by bigots in his name today. Later examples of peaceful treaties and co-existence with minorities in the area around Madina and Makkah, only confirm the belief that genocide and forced conversions were never promoted in the Islamic faith. The Quran makes it clear that there is no compulsion in religion and Muslims must co-exist with followers of other religions. In fact, throughout most of history, Islamic kingdoms have had a better record of minority rights than their counterparts in Europe and other places. When the Jews were being persecuted in Europe and being labelled as the killers of Christ, it was the Muslim Kingdom of Granada in Spain that gave them refuge. After Salahuddin Ayyubi, better known as Saladin, conquered Jerusalem in 1187, he allowed the Jews who had been forced out by the Crusaders to re-settle in the city. William Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice revealed the bigotry of the European society. In it, Shylock, a Jewish money lender is despised by the profligate Venetians that borrow heavily from him. He makes an impassioned speech in the first scene of the third act, in which he questions the persecution of his fellow Jews:

“I am a Jew. Hath not a Jew eyes? Hath not a Jew hands, organs, dimensions, senses, affections, passions; fed with the same food, hurt with the same weapons, subject to the same diseases, healed by the same means, warmed and cooled by the same winter and summer, as a Christian is? If you prick us, do we not bleed? If you tickle us, do we not laugh? If you poison us, do we not die? And if you wrong us, do we not revenge? If we are like you in the rest, we will resemble you in that.”

Ironically, this poignant plea still rings true and its words can be uttered by the mistreated minorities of Pakistan. As I stood on the spot of the bomb blast watching the congealed blood and flesh mixed with grey rubble, I recalled another night last year when I stood on the same street in solidarity with the Shia victims of the Quetta blasts. As the acrid smell of gunpowder and blood assailed my senses, I thought back to all the killings and bomb blasts the Shia community has been hit with. In all of them I see widespread hate and unabated genocide. I see the massive failure of the State to protect its citizens and feel the pain of other disenfranchised minority societies – pain that Abel Meeropol attempted to describe in his poem, Strange Fruit which explained the lynching of slaves in Southern American states and delineated the horror of bigotry and ignorance:

Southern trees bear strange fruit

Blood on the leaves

Blood at the root

Pastoral scene of the gallant south

The bulging eyes and the twisted mouth

Here is a fruit for the crows to pluck

For the rain to gather

For the wind to suck

For the sun to rot

For the tree to drop

Here is a strange and bitter crop

When will the pain end? When will people remember that the white in Pakistan’s flag is a representation of the minorities? Is this 1933 all over again? Unfortunately, the dream of communal harmony lies dead at the hands of killers who roam free. Let us mourn.

Farewell Mandela, farewell to the voice of morality

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Omar Khayyam’s words ring in my ears today as the world bids its last farewell to Nelson Mandela,

“Lo! Some we loved, the loveliest and best that time and fate of all their vintage prest, Have drunk their cup a round or two before, and one by one crept silently to rest.”
I was still a child in the late 1980s. I was too young to understand the ways of the world, blissfully unaware of the earth-shattering global events that dominated the newspaper and the daily news program on PTV. I did not understand why the Berlin Wall fell, who George Bush was, where Kuwait was and why a moustached army man was so worked up about it. My father would offer a pithy comment here and there but I was too young – what could I know about geo-politics? His statements on the happenings would fall on my mind like raindrops on a duck’s back, causing a momentary reaction before sliding off. Then, on February 11, 1990 things changed. The TV showed a man wearing a dark grey suit walking out of a prison and my father seemed very excited. He kept pointing to the screen and saying how this man – this gentle looking, smiling black man – had changed the world. The basic facts seemed simple – this man was a patriot and he had struggled for his country. Like many leaders he had suffered and he had finally found redemption from his nation. I could not understand the adoration of the crowd; some were laughing, while others were in tears. All of them were responding to his every wave, his every gesture but that was not what got to me. What stayed in my mind was not the magnitude of his achievements but the fact that he was in jail for 27 years. 27 years! It seemed like a lifetime for one yet to cross his tenth birthday, for whom teenagers were grown-ups and 25-year-olds were impossibly ancient! 27 was a Googolian number – easy to say but impossible to comprehend. Yet, even after a lifetime of confinement he seemed happy and content. How? This man, Nelson Mandela, had been in the news for years. All the nations had been clamouring for his release. They had boycotted South Africa, made it an international pariah and a prisoner in the world. Now with his release, an entire country had been set free and it was their victory as much as his. Moreover, he had forgiven his political opponents, his enemies and even those who had imprisoned him. On the day of his release he embraced James Gregory, the Warrant Officer and censor in Pollsmoor Prison, and even invited him to his presidential inauguration four years later. My father explained all this to me and it began to form a connecting point between two males, unsure of which topics to broach and how to overcome the unsaid silences that often come between fathers and teenage sons. The dinner table became a forum for regular updates on Mandela. Mandela refused to run for more than one term; Mandela will hand over power to his successor; Mandela has forgiven his chief opponent, former South African president Pieter Botha, and even prosecutor Dr Percy Yutar who had tried to have him proven guilty and executed, in the Rivonia Trial. And so, a picture began to emerge. Mandela was a modern day philosopher king, the Platonic ideal of a ruler, hewn from the same rock as Asoka, Pericles or Marcus Aurelius. In more agnostic moments he would even be compared to a saint. He was the last in a line of great men of the 20th century – a worthy protégé to Gandhi and Martin Luther King Jr. His was the first autobiography I bought and I could tell that my father was pleased at my purchase. Then, I bought a biography and then another. His presence at the 1995 Rugby World Cup final got my father and I hooked to the game, and to this day we support the South African cricket team because it is ‘Mandela’s Team’. I am sure I was not the only one so inspired and touched by this great man. Millions, if not billions heard him speak and for years he was the ‘voice of morality’ in the world. When he condemned the US invasion of Iraq, calling it a ‘holocaust’, he opened the floodgates of protest against American aggression. His demand that the US force Israel to surrender its nuclear weapons had the Zionist Organisation of America (ZOA) foaming and scrambling for defensive action. Although other prominent public figures had protested along similar lines, none had received the response that Madiba, as he was often referred to, did. My father and I would discuss this and more. What made a man have this moral power, the Satyagraha or ‘Truth Force’ that Gandhi talked about? Is it his knowledge, his actions or is it a random confluence of tenacity, charisma and many other things? I suspect that we will never truly know. Yes, Mandela had high morals but he was also suspect to anger. He was a great statesman but there have been others. Somehow this political leader ended up having the combined power of prince and Pope, equally at ease whether in pulpit or parliament. Mandela was the patriarch of a country and a patrician in the true sense of the word. The word patrician is derived from the Latin word ‘patricius’ meaning father and this is precisely what Mandela was, in a spiritual sense, to us all. As he leaves this realm to go to another, I wonder if we will see another like him. For a world starved of inspiration, I hope that we do.

An oracle’s predictions for Pakistan 2014

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On a recent trip to Karachi’s Hawks Bay beach, I was taking a walk and thinking about the past year. There were some highs and lows, both on a personal level and for the country. In all respects it has been an extraordinary year. The country went through a massive election and witnessed a peaceful change of guard in the political spheres. It also saw the meteoric rise and then farcical irrelevance of a major political party while another came to terms with an ever changing post-election scenario. There were pockets of good news followed by disheartening reports of attacks, economic issues amid promises of a utopian Pakistan by the powers that be. There were personal highs and lows too, snippets of happy news juxtaposed by moments of deep grief brought about by national events and deaths of young family members. In the middle of my reverie, I chanced upon an astrologer. Wild and unkempt in a Kiplingesque way, he yelled that he was a true fakir, a follower of Bulleh Shah and could see that I need help. Surrounded in a mist of acrid smoke from a sputtering fire and what seemed like home-made cheroots, playing an ‘ektara’ with a few stray dogs for company and perched on the decaying patio of a derelict beach house, he looked every inch like an avatar of the Delphic oracle. Promising to open the doors to the future he got up and did a little shimmy to prove his ‘spiritual’ credentials. The man was obviously a charlatan but his sing-song plea and notions of grandeur pricked my curiosity and I agreed for to let him tell me my future but more importantly reveal the mysteries for the country. Our “sabzi” team will continue to frustrate and bewilder...

“Baba, tell me about the vagaries of the one unifying force in Pakistan; the Pakistan cricket team.” “My son that is a very difficult question. You see even the stars themselves cannot comprehend the workings of something so complex and I need an offering to coax the spirits to yield their knowledge.”
As all Pakistanis I was curious and the transaction successfully completed he plunged on.
“The green team will continue to frustrate and bewilder…”
I interrupted to clarify if he was saying sabz (green) because it sounded like sabzi (vegetable).
“My son I was saying sabzi, the sabzi team will be as inconsistent as the prices of the tomatoes and onions, sky high one day and lower than a politician’s morals the other day. Young players will make their mark only to be swept aside and occasional brilliance of a bearded one which will mask his overwhelming and frequent failures. The dunce, no don’t interrupt, I don’t mean professor, I do mean dunce. He will still be around blocking the way to success and the aged one will play on and on till the sea turns to salt and the Almighty ends it all.”
My queries somewhat satisfied I moved on to our national pastime, politics. Politics: The more things change, the more they remain the same... My queries somewhat satisfied I moved on to our national pastime, politics.
“Ah you want to know about power. Well there are new faces in the corridors of power, different ones wearing stars and robes, and living in the white palace. Much is expected but beware, the more things change the more they remain the same. However, there is expected peace across the eastern border. The estranged brothers will unite and we shall have a great coming together of voices for the coming reunion. Many will oppose this, yes many who rely on hate and prejudice to earn their way, but the voices of the people shall prevail and we shall soon revel in what joins us, rather than waste time on what keeps us apart.”
I was starting to relish this and moved to my other concerns, the power crisis, electricity and security. Bijli, kapra aur makkan: The lines of people around those gas things will get longer than a mullah’s beard...
 “My son you do test the spirits. Yes bright words from the powerful are marred by dark nights and there is little succor for the people. Seeds of hope are being laid by the young, the bright and honest. There is work being done with neighbours both who look like us and the yellow ones, and I am hopeful that with this new found peace with our old friends, and new, we will be able to see the seeds flower into fruitful trees. There are those who are trying to harness the very waters, the riches in the ground and the forces of creation to create power but it remains to be seen whether the disruptive forces will let this go through. I can promise you that cooling your home in summer and warming it in winter will be much more expensive than before and the lines of people around those gas things will get longer than the river indus. The ones who deal in blood and death will continue to do so as long as there is confusion about the means of tackling them. Those who can are dithering will cause the most harm and certain forces will refuse to even label them as killers and disrupters of God’s peace. Until one gets justice for the weakest and everyone is allowed to live their life there will be unending strife. My son, a great thinker once said that a nation can live without religion but cannot survive without justice and tolerance.”
Moved, I asked him about the state of education. Perhaps the winds of change in education will sway their sails and anchor their boats on our shores...
 “There is some good news there. New institutions are coming up and many old ones are opening doors to unexplored realms of knowledge. We were under the impression that studying one area in isolation is best but true knowledge and prosperity comes from the understanding of how it all interconnects. I know of at least one such centre of knowledge that is starting next year and the makers are friends of the nation and have a name to go along with that. Meanwhile our students at the junior level will continue to astound all with their achievements. I pray for a day in which they stay here and work towards a better Pakistan. Perhaps the winds of change in education will sway their sails and anchor their boats on our shores while others also look to cross the seas to flock back to the motherland.”
The incandescent orb in the sky was touching the waters and it was time to head back. My last question was about my own life in the coming year. You will find love, riches, fame and fortune but it is like this dust if it does not make you a better person... He said,
“Your life is inseparable from the life of the people and the nation. You will prosper if the nation prospers, your hopes and wishes are intertwined with the prayers of the multitudes and even though you will face success and failure it will not be in isolation. You will find love, riches, fame and fortune but it is like this dust if it does not make you a better person. Yes there are challenges but they are not insurmountable and remember that each day and each year carries its own hope. And remember, love others and stay generous.”
I thanked him and walked away, humbled and chastised. A mendicant had summed up what the talking heads on television cannot do in dozens of shows. The coming year has new challenges and many old ones. Time itself does not beat a gong to announce the passing of an age. It is we who herald change by our life, our conduct, our work. As I trudged off in the deepening gloom I could hear him sing. The waves drowned out some of the words but the winds carried his voice clear:

Ek baat asaan naal hans ker jee

Tusi dil wich merey wasdey-o

Aywein sathoon door kion nasdey-o

Naaley ghaat jadoo dil khasdey-o

Bas ker jee hun bas ker jee

 

(Talk to me with a smile

You live in my heart

And yet you beguile me

I am charmed with your name on my lip

You try as usual and give me a slip

Enough is enough)


Game of Thrones is the greatest show of all time

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Unsullied! Forward march!
My shout reverberated off the walls, sounding even louder in the quiet environs of my workplace. My colleagues gave mixed reactions. Some were shocked while one intern asked,
“March where?”
‘Unsullied’ – while not an offensive word – was not really in my usual repertoire of phrases and hence, their reactions can be excused. Some sniggered into their keyboards while other ‘potential CEOs’, gave me a knowing look and nodded sagely. One particularly wise one walked up to me and called me the ‘father of dragons’ in a conspiratorial whisper. I felt proud, my work here was done. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="640"] Khaleesi epic moment leading the unsullied army. Source: IMDb[/caption] My booming cry was, of course, a reference to that wildly successful HBO TV show, Game Of Thrones (GOT). For those living in caves or under rocks, GOT is based on fantasy writer George R R Martin’s series of novels A Song of Ice and Fire. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="411"] Series of novels by George R R Martin. Photo: Reuters[/caption] The show finished its third season this summer and has received both critical and commercial acclaim. Is it the greatest TV show of all time? This scribe can agree but there are naysayers aplenty. In just the comedy section many swear by Simpsons or Friends while the older and truly ancient enthuse about Seinfeld and Happy Days. In the drama genre Sopranos’ fans give stiletto glares if you mention GOT being ‘GOAT’ (yes, Roger Federer has another challenger) while my father’s generation would mention Kojak and give GOT the same withering look that the Dowager Countess of Grantham from Downtown Abbey would give to the prospect of watching an IPL match in Mumbai. ‘The House that puts family first will always win over the house that puts the whims of sons and daughters first’ No, the show has its detractors but for millions it is an instant classic. Eminently watchable, the show has one thing most TV programs, including our own Urdu serials, lack – great dialogue. There has been an overall decline in script-writing globally and one simply does not hear the same scintillating phrases anymore. Try watching an old MGM classic or PTV drama up till the 80s or anything by Guru Dutt and you will understand what I am saying. For this reason, it falls right into my other passion – quoting movie lines and bringing them into regular conversations. Conversations have gotten duller since the advent of talk shows and my need for pithy one-liners has only grown. In this conversational wasteland, lines from GOT works wonders. The bombastic words and swashbuckling phrases can be drenched in hyperbole and do not even need to be pertinent. A general sprinkling of them over mundane conversations provides a ready, albeit false, sense of accomplishment to the speaker and bemused befuddlement for the listener. ‘I am going to make him an offer he can’t refuse’ The show is also an example of how popular TV programs or movies become first a part of pop-culture and then permeate language in an almost imperceptible manner. Remember when we first loved and then soon cringed at ‘Hasta la Vista’? Or the excitement when you uttered ‘I am going to make him an offer he can't refuse’ in a hokey Italian accent? Of course, there is also the Indian film dialogue which has been a mainstay of several conversations. Which one of us has not tried to impersonate Amitabh Bachan in his suburban cool when he drawls to a bunch of dockyard bullies in Deewar?
“Tum mujhay wahan dhoond rahay thay aur main tumhara yahan intezar kar raha tha.” (You were looking for me over there and I was waiting for you here.)
Or rolled up our jacket sleeves and grown a five-o-clock stubble in an effort to get on the Miami Vice bandwagon? [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="236"] The Godfather. Source: Pinterest[/caption] ‘Winter is coming’ GOT is a part of the same pedigree and has added a whole new lexicon to my vocabulary. Many of the scripted words make far greater sense than conventional ones. Instead of using the odious and misleading ‘elite’ for the moneyed classes I use ‘high-born’ which plays well into my ‘ovarian lottery’ theory. The word ‘elite’ has positive connotations and conveys a sense of virtues for the ‘cream’ of society but the ‘cream’ as we all know, is rich and dense and thus, my increasing usage of ‘high-born’. Then there is politics and politicians. I am tempted to create analogies with local politicians and now call the finance minister ‘Master of Coin’ which is quite apt since it seems that our minister is only good for counting coins of small denominations. I talk of secret whisperings of the birds and when someone refers to a famous journalist-cum-sports official, I dismiss them by saying that I was referring to Lord Varys – the spy master in the show. [embed width="620"]http://vimeo.com/56869226[/embed] ‘Thwarting you has never been my ambition, although who doesn’t like to see his friends fail now and then’ When a friend told me about how well Saeed Ajmal bowled I replied,
“The old wolf had to, winter is coming.”
He was left somewhat confused but I walked away buoyant. When another complained about me spoiling his dinner plan by showing up late I told him,
“Thwarting you has never been my ambition, although who doesn’t like to see his friends fail now and then?”
He was non-plussed, a barbeque session gone wrong is hardly a rank failure but what did I care? At a family breakfast there was the usual discussion about relatives and I seized the opportunity to throw in a little gem and intoned,
“The House that puts family first will always win over the house that puts the whims of sons and daughters first.”
There was a pattern building and when a wag at an art exhibition harangued on about chaos my riposte was,
“Chaos isn’t a pit, it’s a ladder; the rest are illusions, only the ladder is real.”
Ah, bliss. ‘A Lannister always pays his debts’ GOT is not just a show, it parallels real life as we know it – a kingdom with many kings, each vying for power with double crosses galore, a capital with Byzantium politics and wildlings from beyond the Wall who threaten to plunge everything into disarray. Sounds familiar?
“Every time we eliminate an enemy we create two more.”
These words could have been uttered by John Kerry but instead, it is Tyrion Lannister – one of the main characters and an unlikely hero who says them. Given the right setting, these statements have a sublime effect. [caption id="" align="aligncenter" width="337"] Tyrion Lannister. Source: IMDb[/caption] Either that or I end up being branded a moron and live with the shame of being daft but that is a risk we mavericks have to take. But those who mock and malign, beware…
“A Naqvi always pays his debts…”

Karachi Burns Road: The Holy Grail for foodies

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The waiter picked up my Naan. He saw my quizzical expression and said,

“It’s not hot anymore. I am getting you a fresh one.”
Then he comes back and asks in a solicitous whisper if I am enjoying myself. With such courtliness, how could I not? This Michelin star service was not at an exorbitantly priced restaurant. No, the setting of this delightful exchange was Waheed Nihari at Karachi’s Burns Road a.k.a. food paradise. Ernest Hemingway called Paris a moveable feast – in the same vein, Karachi is an immovable feast and Burns Road the location. The food capital of Pakistan is reputed to be Lahore. I beg to differ. Lahore has her temptations but Karachi’s place in gastronomic heaven is firm with her culinary repertoire running the gamut from Paye to pizza and ravioli to Rabri. To enlighten those who have not embarked on the food pilgrimage or haven’t gone outside their comfort zone, Burns Road is a street in the heart of the old part of Karachi and is famous for its traditional (read mouth-watering) food items such as Nihari, Haleem, Kebabs, fried fish and desserts such as Rabri and traditional drinks such as Lassi. If you take the road from the Urdu Bazaar and turn to the traffic light at the far end, you’ll enter the Holy Grail for foodies. During the day the road looks like any other main road with buses spewing smoke and pedestrians choking the sidewalks. But come night and the street metamorphoses into a cornucopia of savoury and sweet, awash in garish neon signs advertising the delectable offerings of each eating place. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] It is serious eating here, with no fancy presentations or garnishes, just honest, good food that lures the eater into a bacchanal of gluttony. My first experience was no light hearted affair but a complete immersion in the victuals on offer. While perusing the various places, even the most casual observer will notice the predominance of restaurants that hark back to the city of Delhi. You can hear the echoes of Chandi Chawk and Nizammuddin and, in fact, I found more than a passing resemblance between a Nihari place here and the famous Karim restaurant in Delhi. According to senior denizens of the area, many people who migrated from Delhi to Karachi preferred to live on Burns Road.
“In the 1950s, the newly migrated people were looking for dishes that were famous in Delhi and the shopkeepers of that time not only adapted the names and reproduced recipes of Delhi’s traditional fare but also decided to include the name Delhi while naming their shops to conjure an effect,” said Abbas Raza, an elderly resident of Burns Road.
Before partition, Rizwan’s grandfather was running a sweets shop near Jama Masjid Delhi and today he owns an establishment that is now known as Delhi Darbar Sweets. Many shops, including Rizwan’s, that opened in the late 1950s and early 1960s are still going strong and it is a testament to their popularity that even at four in the morning I have to get past a traffic jam to get some Nihari for my Sehri in Ramzan. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] Waheed’s Nihari is probably the best known place and one bite of the hot, gelatinous concoction will make it clear why it is so. Perhaps the cleanliness of the floor might deter some, but do not be alarmed since the plates are incontestably clean. The ambience resonates with that of the fictional Weatherbury Inn from Thomas Hardy’s Far From the Madding Crowd, where the drinking cups are described in much the same vein. The rough hewn patrons mix happily with the affluent who are here partly because of nostalgia of student days but mostly drawn in by the siren call of the Nihari and the butter fried Kebabs. Opposite Waheed are two of the many gems in this treasure house, namely the Gulab Jamun maker and the fried fish seller. Names are withheld at their request but even I felt that the hot, deep fried treats should really be kept a secret. You can choose your fish and have it cut any way you desire. A slow dip in the searing oil, a sound of frying that’s music to my stomach, a squeeze of lemon, a pinch of spices and you will have your taste buds dancing in no time. The fish is fresh from the morning catch and the taste is enough to make the English swear off their bland version. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="402"] Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] If Nihari or fish is not your thing then perhaps you will opt for the other import from across the border, Haleem. Mazedar Haleem, the city’s most famous Haleem seller, is head quartered here, as is Karachi Haleem. These people are no mere mortals but magicians who take the humble pulses, toss in a bit of meat and some spices and create a stew fit for a monarch and healthy to boot. Haleem was probably created to debunk the theory that anything hedonistic is bad for your health. You can even get it canned to send to your loved ones abroad or store it as rations for nuclear fallout. Even being encased in a lead bunker isn’t so bad if the canned supplies last so I usually have a few pounds of canned stuff lying around the house. Moving from the Delhi foodstuffs you come to the relative newcomer from the north, the Sajji. The meat, usually chicken or mutton, is minimally spiced and slowly cooked over a fire, then cut up and sprinkled with masala and lemon juice. Agha Sajji House and Al-Sajjad Sajji are two prominent places. The roaring fires and meat laden spits do whet your appetite and the droves of people munching away prove it to be so. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] Burns Road caters to a variety of tastes, so capricious epicures need not worry. If snacks are what you are looking for then look no further than Fresco Sweets, famous for its Dahi Phulki which balances sweet and tart perfectly and the Phulkis seemingly made out of sunbeams and angel mist – so light that they can almost be inhaled in but with a burst of flavour that hits you and keeps lulling away long after you have had your fill. Burns Road is also host to some of the city’s famous sweet places too. Delhi Rabri House proves that Nihari and Haleem are not the only things the Delhites were adept at, for the Rabri here is sinfully good. Kulfi, ice cream, Faluda, and sweet milk are all on offer and awfully good too, but it’s the Rabri that brings in the customers. I was told that the maker has been making the same creamy stuff for over thirty years with no intention of stopping soon. Amen to that! [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] After sampling Karhai, Nihari, Sajji or Haleem many want to pass over the rich desserts and move on to something refreshing to wash down the good stuff. The Punjab Lassi House has been doing that for over a quarter of a century. The Lassi slips down your throat, singing the songs of the Punjab and erasing the after effects of spicy food. [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="600"] Photo: Sibtain Naqvi[/caption] In summer, it is a godsend and banishes the heat demons just as effectively. Sweet, salty or churned with a crumbling Perha sweetmeat, the Lassi here is the benchmark for the rest, the highpoint of any dairy drink. Burns Road’s position as the dowager empress of the food world is firmly entrenched. There are other places in different parts of Karachi and the country which have great food and firm clientele. But if there is one spot that throws down the gauntlet and stands apart, it’s this magical street of sumptuous, succulent treats.

Books, cooks, schnooks and more at the Karachi Literature Festival ’14

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The Karachi Literature Festival inaugurated in 2010 and in five years has become the leading cultural event in Pakistan. A literary spectacle. I throng in with an assortment of school children, aging grandfathers and what seem to be ramp models only to run into four journalists lounging at a table and discussing media studies at a local university. The conversation is stimulating but my eye catches a glimpse of a well-known writer. A quick chat and she’s surrounded by eager little fans. Another breezes past and announces that she is moderating a book launch and needs to meet the guest, a budding novelist. A famous television actor is coming out of a session and we talk briefly about his work. He is gracious but the conversion is interrupted by officious paparazzi. At lunch, I offer my samosa to a Booker prize finalist, except he wants a chicken tikka. Would I? Who wouldn’t? And all this in the space of an hour. It’s heady, it’s scintillating, it’s the Karachi Literature Festival (KLF). [embed width="620"]http://vimeo.com/80966770[/embed] The Beach Luxury Hotel in Karachi, Pakistan is a quiet place. During the day one can often hear the rustling leaves as they blow across the parking area. Set in an unfrequented nook of the teeming megalopolis, it is usually the setting for exclusive weddings and parties. However, for three days in the year, it undergoes a metamorphosis. The venue for KLF causes the nightly festivities to be replaced with witty quotes and lyrical verses, and the crowds come in by thousands in to sample the intellectual offerings. The KLF provides an opportunity to showcase Pakistan as a country rich in culture and creativity and is a reflection of the country’s historical roots as expressed in a multiplicity of languages and in various forms of writing with past and contemporary context. Taking advantage of interest in writing from and about Pakistan, the festival also seeks to broaden the picture and counter-balance the negative depiction of society in Pakistan by celebrating the diversity and dynamism of this society. As organiser Ms Ameena Saiyid said,

“The aim of the Karachi Literature Festival is to promote and project Pakistan writers and to get people reading. The author, the poet, the playwright, the biographer have a great contribution to make to our society and we are organising this festival to honour our writers, raise their profile and bring them closer to their readers.”
The melee of characters makes for a slightly haphazard program which is hardly surprising, given that it brings together the diverse elements of Karachi and a whole slew of writers, actors, dancers, musicians and assorted personalities under one roof. While rushing from one session to next, the visitor experiences constant cognitive dissonance about the missed sessions and cannot escape the feeling that the word ‘festival’ is a key part of the name and thus the most prominent persona of the event. The dictionary defines ‘festival’ as a celebration for a specific occasion – the occasion in this case being the confluence of writers, thinkers, intellectuals, academics and visitors who are all ready for stimulating literary sessions. At the KLF, one could experience long talks on regional politics, on education, on women’s legal rights, on the broadcast media, etcetera. With a select audience and a liberal ambience, KLF is an uncensored field for freedom of expression, thought and contact. A Parsi, a Bohri and I get into a conversation about the on-going TTP talks. The Parsi talks about the possibility of growing a beard. Since I am rather addicted to my look I joke about declaring myself a dhimmi (non-Muslims of an Islamic state) and paying jizya (tax). We laugh because we can and because we feel liberated enough to joke about it. Yes, it’s the KLF, the dark humour is perfectly acceptable and you naturally feel slightly freer when you have just heard a speech by Mahatma Gandhi’s grandson. Sustaining Karachi’s literary roots A few years back, literary and cultural programs were a regular feature in the major cities of Pakistan but due to various challenges they have become scarce. In this light, KLF is an important step in the right direction and belies the poor impression of Pakistan by putting forth the country’s writers alongside the global literary elite. KLF is also a reflection of Pakistan’s societal resilience and self-belief which is instrumental in holding large events like this one. The tenacity of Karachi’s society makes a successful case for the international community to ignore the negativity that pervades the country and they fly in droves to interact with an audience hungry for cultural expressions. At the Festival the oft mentioned bullets and bombs are replaced by a fusillade of verbal gunfire and the figurative violence is usually done by a vociferous audience who unleash their questions and comments on the panellists and moderators. A couple of mothers, childhood friends, are both sitting next to the Oxford University Press book van. One of them enthuses,
“I am encouraging her to read and buy as many books as she wants.”
Looking at her daughter devour the books, I hoped she has a steady supply of cash. But the joy of the little one was infectious and I sat down to hear her read aloud the Grimm Brothers fairy tales. Another couple had brought their month-old son. They posited that the literary germs would infuse the child and transfer some of the genius. The sceptic in me balked but in a place such as KLF all things are possible and that’s as good a theory as any. KLF isn’t just about interacting with writers or books or listening to debate, it’s about story-telling that brings audiences to the edge of their seats and rooms heaving with disbelief, anger and laughter. This year around, a session on the question about Pakistan’s problems, opportunities and ambitions had the audience either nodding sagely in agreement or curtly shaking their heads in denial. Beyond the glamour, the hobnobbing, the signed books and millions of selfies with celebrated intellectuals or the there-to-see-and-be-seen bunch, the KLF is actually a serious literary event and a much needed avenue for the pining voices of liberals and intellectuals, famished for a space to hear and talk about topics now vanished from mainstream media and happy to bask in a feeling that in spite of all the strife, there is all this. A visiting Canadian in line for coffee told me she’s never been so excited. She’s staying at a Pakistani friend’s home and is in love with the ambience.
“You are so lucky. Toronto is freezing right now and all you can do is hole up.”
The warm sun, the cool sea breeze, the verdant grass as a setting for a talk and the wit of Mohammed Hanif, yes, I did feel rather lucky. Will she come next year? She responds to my curiosity,
“Just try and keep me away”
Growing pains KLF, while being a worthy effort, has a few glitches. One of them is that its scope is so broad that it is difficult to digest it as a purely literature festival. The discussions often ventured into two areas the audience seems to be particularly interested in – economics and politics. Perhaps it was difficult to separate them from the general discussions but often the speakers were not fully cognisant of the prevailing issues to offer valuable insights. With a packed schedule and multiple sessions, there seemed to be a noticeable shortage of speakers who could do justice to the varied topics. At times it was laborious to hear the same panellists discuss vastly different subjects which would lead to a plethora of shallow comments and vapid insights. The location can also be more accessible. The event is held at one end of Karachi – one can understand the security concerns behind the decision to host it there but a central location would draw in a larger and more diversified group of people thus leading to wider ranging discussions. One wag put this socio-economic and locational narrowness in context when he spoke about the struggle a writer faces in covering a story or writing a book because he keeps running into the same six intellectuals in each visit which gives a stilted account of an issue. While the organisers have made an effort to encourage local writings and provincial literature, the sessions were few and there a concern that the focus is more on English writings. If indigenous literature and Urdu are not given the same attention, they will thus lose their cultural context and they should be given encouragement by bringing in writers who are currently producing literary works in them. Bright road ahead Nevertheless, KLF is a significant achievement and truly a labour of love for the organisers. In spite of travel restrictions, a floundering economy and the internal insecurity of Pakistan, KLF has simply gone from strength to strength and has become Pakistan’s literary event of the year. It remains a work in progress but with few changes, it can become a major cultural event for the entire region. It’s also a great opportunity to cock a snook at those who can’t help but condescend about Karachi and its somewhat challenging life. It felt rather good when a London based friend said looking online at the event program,
“OK! I will admit, I am seriously, seriously jealous.”

Asia Cup 2014: 12 years of Pakistan and India mêlée, who will win tomorrow?

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They don’t come bigger than this. No. When you talk of sporting rivalries what comes to mind? Australia Wallabies and New Zealand All Blacks in rugby? Ashes? Brazil and Argentina in football? None of them compare to this one. The India-Pakistan cricket rivalry puts them all in the shade with its background of four wars, numerous skirmishes, disputed borders and nuclear weapons. From 1951 when the first India-Pakistan Test match took place to their last match in the ICC Champions trophy, every series, every tournament, every moment of every match has been a saga of raw emotion and unbridled passion. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xkmi5i_not-just-a-cricket-match-it-s-a-war-of-india-vs-pakistan-in-semi-final_sport[/embed] The India-Pakistan match on Sunday, March 2, may not be a do-or-die but it would be facile to assume that they will not come hard at each other. Today, we will look at some of the memorable matches played between these two countries in cricket World Cups. March 4, 1992 The ‘92 World Cup (WC) had many firsts. Coloured clothing made an immediate impression and Duck-Worth Lewis showed how administrators can make a disgusting hash of even the most flavoursome ingredients. The WC was also the first one to feature an India-Pakistan match which, oddly enough, had not been played in the ‘77, ‘79, ‘83, and ‘87 editions. The format meant that every team would play the other in the round robin stage and the two reignited the rivalry at the Sydney Cricket Ground. India won the toss and batted first to post 216 for the loss of six wickets. Man of the Match, Sachin Tendulkar, still in his teens, made a fighting half century against a bowling attack that included Wasim Akram, Aaqib Javed, Mushtaq Ahmed and an aging but effective Imran Khan. The match was reduced to 49 overs due to a rain delay and Pakistan, still not in their ‘cornered tiger’ mode slumped to 173 all out in spite of a fighting 64 by Aamir Sohail. The match had no bearings on the end result and is remembered more for the kangaroo jumping incident featuring India’s wicketkeeper Kiran More and the ever-irascible antagonist, Javed Miandad. More appealed for a run out against Miandad (who was well in) and in his enthusiasm started jumping like a jack rabbit. Safely in, Miandad made a mockery of the appeal and did his own high jumps which would have made LeBron James proud. Pakistan recovered from the loss to win the World Cup while India crashed out before the semis, which may have prompted more than one person to ask More to try for India’s Olympic high jump team. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x15ndda_pakisatan-winning-moments-world-cup-1992_sport[/embed] March 9, 1996 Just over four years later, the two teams met again in a World Cup match in the 1996 Quarter-final. It was a knock out and the stakes could not have been higher. Pakistan had played well in the group stage with the only loss against hot favourites, South Africa. The M Chinnaswamy Stadium, in Bangalore, was packed to the rafters with 40,000 screaming fans. India won the toss and keeping in mind Pakistan’s poor record in chasing batted first. Not for the first time against Pakistan, Navjot Sidhu played an exceptional innings and fell just seven shy from an outstanding century against what many described as the best bowling attack in the world.  Captain Wasim Akram controversially sat out but the attack was still potent with Waqar Younis, Aaqib and Mushtaq going strong and aided by Aamir’s spin. Pakistan, in spite of Sidhu’s inning, seemed to be on course to restrict India to a manageable score. At the crucial stage, Ajay Jadeja decided to play the innings of his life and took the bowling by the scruff. He made 45 off 25 balls. India scored 57 runs in the final four overs, including 22 off a Waqar over. In fact, Waqar and Javed both gave 67 in their ten overs, an abysmal bowling performance that enabled India to post a difficult 287. Pakistan started in style, with Saeed Anwar smack in the middle of a purple patch with Aamir at their belligerent best, Pakistan at the ten over mark were steaming along at 84 for no loss. Then disaster struck. Venkatesh Prasad was being hammered by Aamir who, infamously, gestured to the bowler that he can bowl anywhere and the ball will still get to the boundary. Prasad came back with a comeback that has gone in the annals of history, a riposte so good that it did away with the gesturing for good. Aamir clean bowled the very next bowl. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xfsvzu_india-vs-pakistan-1996-world-cup-quarter-final_shortfilms[/embed] [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xq4rd8_video-venkatesh-prasad-vs-aamir-sohail-1996-world-cup-quarter-final-at-bangalore-cricket-fan-s-posts_sport[/embed] Chastened and under pressure, Pakistan wilted away and 113 for two soon became 248 all out. The match was Javed’s last and Pakistan had lost their second successive match to India in a World Cup. June 8, 1999 Pakistan played India in a Super Six match at Old Trafford in the ’99 World Cup. Was third time going to be lucky? It certainly seemed so. Pakistan was in unfamiliar territory of being the tournament favourites. A star studded batting line and a bowling attack that boasted Wasim, Waqar and Saqlain Mushtaq gave hopes to getting their hands on the World Cup silver. The latter was counted among the most dangerous ODI bowlers in the world, his doosra, and the then called ‘mystery delivery’ was almost unplayable by batsmen unused to the change in spin. Leading to the World Cup, Pakistan had beaten India in the Asian Test Championship and the Coca Cola cup in Sharjah, UAE. They had also swept Australia in the round robin stage and seemed to be peaking at the right time. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xq5r4y_pakistan-vs-india-1999-sharjah-final-youtube_sport[/embed] India was a dour side, their bowling, led by medium pacers and batting featuring Sachin, M Azhrauddin and a still-developing Rahul Dravid, was hardly the unstoppable run making machine it is now. India won the toss and batted first. They struggled against the formidable attack, floundering to a seemingly sub-par 227. Pakistan batted deep with Wasim at number nine and with Saeed Anwar, Shahid Afridi, Ijaz Ahmed, Saleem Malik and Inzamamul Haq in the team, it should have been over with minimal fuss. It was. Pakistan sunk to 180, with none of the star batsmen crossing 50, the highest being Inzi’s 41. Venkatesh bowling medium pacers on a good length took five for 27 and with it ensured that Pakistan would have to wait another four years to get the chance to improve their World Cup record against India. March 1, 2003 SuperSport Park in Centurion, South Africa was the venue for the third encounter in a World Cup. Post the Kargil skirmish, the two teams had not played for a long time and the match was billed as the one to watch for. Tickets were sold out hours after being posted and the capacity crowd was a sea of blue and green. Pakistan won the toss and, faster than you can say ‘collapse’, opted to bat first. Saeed held the innings together with a century but no one really stood out. Inzi was having a torrid tournament and was run-out while the others got starts only to lose their head and wicket. Pakistan made 273, a competitive score in most cases, but India was in dominant form and there was an ominous feeling that their phalanx of stroke makers would romp to the target easily. Still, Pakistan had Wasim, Waqar and the world’s fastest bowler, one Shoaib Akhtar. Shoaib was in his pomp and the Pakistan fans half hoped he would derail the blue train. Sachin had other ideas and murdered the bowling attack and any thoughts of a Pakistan win were swiftly dashed. His 98 for 75 balls was a savage assault that had the men in green cringing and awestruck, and Shoaib was put firmly in his place. Sachin fell short of the winning target, his wicket celebrated across the land but it was far too late and Rahul and Yuvraj Singh guided the team to victory in the most unflustered manner. Pakistan did not clear the first round, a performance that ended Wasim’s career and left the country now wondering when the World Cup bogey would end. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x3gkp3_india-vs-pakistan-cricket-world-cup_sport[/embed] March 30, 2011 Pakistan and India did not play each other in the 2007 World Cup, both exiting in the early stages. The 2011 edition was being held in the sub-continent and much had changed. Pakistan was a cricket pariah, ostracised in the spot fixing scandal and shorn of their right to host international matches because of the attack on the Sri Lankan cricket team in Lahore in 2009. The dynamics of the sport had changed. India was a powerhouse, flushed from the success of the IPL and their dominant power in the cricket world. The Indian cricket team, led by the unflappable MS Dhoni, was strong and billed as tournament favourites. Pakistan, on the other hand, was seen as the dark horse, the underdogs who may just pull it off and Captain Shahid Afridi was reining high as the leading leg spinner in the world. Shahid promised a tough fight and Pakistan’s demolition of the Windies in the quarters gave life to hitherto dead expectations. The match at the Punjab Cricket Association Stadium in Mohali, Chandigarh was the most celebrated sporting event of 2011. Tickets were not to be had for love or money. Prime Minister Yousuf Raza Gilani was invited by the Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh to watch the proceedings. The Government of Pakistan declared a national holiday and almost one and a half billion people sat glued to their televisions to watch the drama unfold. India won the toss and batted first, reaching 260, courtesy of an 84 by Sachin who was given more lives than a cat by the Pakistani fielders. Pakistan started in what has become their usual style, slow, cumbersome and devoid of a plan. They made heavy work of a gettable target and when Shahid was caught by Virender Sehwag off Harbhajan Singh, it snuffed any lingering hopes. The match is also remembered for Misbah’s stonewalling which gave him the derogatory epithet of ‘tuk tuk’ and to this day, leaves some Pakistan cricket fans foaming with rage. To rub salt into deep wounds, India went on to crush Sri Lanka in the final and claim their second World Cup. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xjd2aa_india-vs-pakistan-2nd-semi-final_news[/embed] India once again look strong, their batting line-up capable of chasing just about anything. Pakistan is typically Pakistan, fine bowling, poor batting. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1811cu_magic-movements-of-pakistan-v-india_sport[/embed] Who will win? Jury’s out on this one. [poll id="326"]


Pink buses, pinkie rickshaws and extra-virgin airlines to the rescue!

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So, we now have a women-only bus service. That makes sense. Given the piddling issues of mass unemployment, insecurity, a weak economy and the energy crisis, one can understand the government’s obsession with its favourite pastime – separation of the sexes. I can even imagine the conversation that must have transpired. Imagine this – a huge room dripping with opulence and accompanied with the usual smell of flop sweat that hangs in bureaucratic offices. Seated around the teak wood table are leading strategists, clad in crisp white shalwar kameez and shining pates. On the throne-like chair sits the head honcho, marked by the starchiest suit with a dome that shines like the moonlit pool of Shalimar Garden. The scintillating discussion must have gone something like this:

Minion 1: “Sir, we have some serious issues to discuss. It’s best if we finish the samosas and move on with them.” Minion 2: “The major issue is the delay in tea.” Minion 1: “Yes, but I am talking about electricity, insecurity and of course, the dushman mulk ki saazish (conspiracy of the enemy state).” Minion 3: “This is useless stuff. What we should be concerned about is public transport. Specifically, the boring buses we have. We need a morale booster that delights voters, gives them a sense of security and resolves the issue of eve-teasing.” Minion 4: “But we don’t have the budget for an awareness drive or the time for proper law enforcement. The budget is all gone in that youth festival and the kabaddi tournament. My constituents demand instant action!”
With this, he banged the table hard and knocked over the microphone.
Head Honcho: “Look here minions… I mean ministers. We can resolve all these issues with a single move. Roll out a women-only bus service. The female voters will be happy and it will be just the kind of populist move that will keep the masses occupied.” Minion 1: “That’s perfect boss! We can paint it pink. My wife loves that colour so I assume that’s what all women want. But what happens before the women get on the bus or after they get off?” Head Honcho: “That is beyond the scope of our jurisprudence.” Minion 2: “You mean jurisdiction boss?”
The Head Honcho, while reaching for a samosa, replied,
“Same thing!”
So, now we have a female-only bus painted pink. What about the driver and the conductor? I was hoping that we could have a female driver who would cut lanes and play loud, raunchy songs accompanied by a wee lass conductor who would swing from the door and keep a five rupee coin behind her ear. But why stop there? The worthy thinkers who floated this ‘brilliant’ idea should also consider all classes of female travellers. What about the females who take rickshaws? Are they not in danger as well? I suggest the government should launch a line of female-only rickshaws or ‘Pinkies’ to give it a feminine twang. Imagine a troop of pink rickshaws, their silencers tuned to putter along with ‘Ay Hai Ay Hai’ and not ‘ruk tuk ruk tuk’. Or instead of lines like Dekh Magar Pyar Se (Look but with love), they can have Mat Dekh Rishta Dey (Don’t look, just send a proposal). [caption id="" align="alignnone" width="496"] Design: Jamal Khurshid[/caption] Rickshaw drivers normally put a pithy line or two on their vehicle and the female drivers of the Pinkies could print poetry of Parveen Shakir and prose from Ismat Chughtai or Qurratulain Hyder to showcase their literary leanings and traverse the city as a vision of femininity and free verse. Moving up the scale we could have taxis, also pink and free from all ‘male pollutants’. They will stop at designated ‘male-free zones’ such as the front of a fat-free ice cream shop and can also accept payment in Grey’s Anatomy DVDs. So that takes care of road travel. But surely, our women fly too and the skies are full of eve-teasers. The government should partner with a local version of Howard Hughes and launch a female-only airline service. In a country named after purity and obsessed with heavenly virgins, the name ‘Virgin Airline’ would have been perfect but too bad Richard Branson beat us to it. Still, no need to worry. We can do better and go with ‘Extra-Virgin Airways’, thus proving our ‘purer-than-pure’ credentials and safeguarding females from amorous creatures of the skies. I can almost imagine someone saying,
“It’s a bird, it’s a plane, it’s a giant flamingo.”
[caption id="" align="alignnone" width="606"] Design: Blogs Desk[/caption] However, certain people might object to the curvy shape, streamlined sides and pleasant pink hues of an ‘Extra Virgin’ airplane. So, the best thing would be to move towards a zeppelin or an air craft with an amorphous shape so as to avoid exciting these individuals. If that does not work we can always drape a black billowy cloth over it with a slit for the pilot’s view to keep the planes modest and traditional. That will really safeguard the female travellers from the lascivious menfolk on the ground below. And then, once travel is made secure for females, our worthy government can rest easy and get on to the issues of female-only malls, restaurants and public spaces. I can’t help but admire their vision and aesthetic sense. After all, our roads do need a bit of colour and to reword Humphrey Bogart to suit our needs,
“This could be the start of a beautiful traffic jam.”

Larkana: Losing our soul, religion and country, one minority at a time

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Today is Holi, the festival of colours. Today, Hindus bedeck themselves in the colours of life and love and many other communities join in to mark the start of spring. Alas, the only colour adorning Pakistan is black and red. Our Hindu brethren in the streets of Larkana should be celebrating this auspicious festival. Instead, they hide in their houses, afraid for their safety and worried about reprisals from a community that should be their protectors. Once again, the spectre of bigotry and hatred has raised its head in what is becoming a far too frequent pattern. Once again, we are left wondering about the empty symbols of equality, the white strip in our flag and the all but the forgotten speech of our founder which he made on August 11, 1947 and promised freedom of worship and equality for all citizens of Pakistan. What is the issue here? The desecration of the holy book or the inherent intolerance for those of another religion that has permeated society? If the pages of the holy book are damaged by one person, is that a license to burn down temples and places of worship? Is pillage and gross retribution a tenet taught by Islam? It is not; however, there are those who have strayed too far from the ideas of equality and tolerance that Islam preaches. The 2012 killing in Florida of Trayvon Martin, a black youth, highlighted the ignorance of a few but it was the strong response of the government which showcased the rights given to all members of a society. President Barack Obama himself paid his respects, even as the news caused a national outrage in the United States and dominated the presidential race taking place at that time. That is the litmus test of minority rights, the reaction of the state and the public at large to an ugly incident. Has there been a similar response to the forced conversions of Hindus and Christian girls, the desecration of non-Muslim places of worship, and the everyday cases of persecution that occur in Pakistan? Sadly, the answer has always been a few innocuous statements by the elected officials, empty promises and then ignominious silence by state institutions. Pakistan’s case is tragic, considering the important role the Hindu community has played in the creation and, later, development of the country. The nation’s first law minister, Jogendra Nath Mandal, was a Hindu who was also nominated by Muhammad Ali Jinnah as one of the four Muslim league nominees in the interim government of joint India in 1946. Mandal was one of the founding fathers of Pakistan and supported the creation of Pakistan, him being the principle reason the idea of Pakistan got the support of the Scheduled Castes. After partition, he became the chairman of the Constituent Assembly of Pakistan and joined the first cabinet in Pakistan as the Minister of Law and Labour. He was dismayed at the passing of the Objectives Resolution and when the lower-caste Hindus were killed in East Bengal, he saw his vision of a secular Pakistan die with them. He left for India and resigned from his position, never to see the country he had laboured endlessly to help create. Other non-Muslims too played critical roles. SP Singha, speaker of the Punjab Assembly when the resolution for Pakistan was moved, proved instrumental in rallying Christian members to vote for Pakistan, which eventually was passed with the majority of just three votes. History would have been different had he not been there. Samuel Martin Burke was the magistrate of the Election Petition Commission of Punjab in 1945 and he moved 16 petitions in favour of the Muslim League, in the face of much opposition from the Indian National Congress, Maulana Maudoodi of the Jamaat-e-Islami (JI) and Sir Sikander Hayat, who had wanted a United India. Also, standing for Pakistan included BL Rulia Ram, Bhim Sen Sachar and others who fought and won this country for us. These people are amongst the many who shared Jinnah’s dreams, lived and died for Pakistan and left their homes in India, only in the belief of a new and tolerant country. There are war heroes who have accepted death as readily as any of their Muslim brethren. Christian, Hindu and Parsi soldiers have fought and died as recently as 2008, in the military operation in Swat. These are also Pakistanis, people who have worked for this country and call it their home. These are our friends and neighbours, school teachers and nurses. We laugh with them, partake in their joys and mourn their tragedies. They form part of the tapestry of Pakistan; a tapestry which is in danger of being shorn of the diversity, passion and patriotism that they add so readily to it. We stand with them to remind them and more importantly that the true measure of a nation is how it treats those whom it is meant to safeguard. If we don’t protect their rights, their places of worship, their homes and livelihoods, then we have lost the soul of our country. That is an eternal loss which I refuse to accept.


IPL: Cheap Bollywood extravaganza, not a sport

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Every year, from around April to the beginning of June, I go on a hiatus from cricket. This includes shunning every cricket website and sports channel with the zeal of a politician shunning honest work and disabling the Cricinfo app on my phone and tablet. At social gatherings and at work I religiously avoid conversations pertaining to cricket and if someone directs a cricket-related comment at me, I start to extol the virtues of the insect rather than the sport. This leaves the company rather befuddled considering that for the rest of the 46 weeks in the year, cricket is a regular fixture and a much loved, read, watched and listened-to topic of mine. This has been the case for the past few years and the reason for my sudden metamorphosis can be explained in one word, or rather one acronym - IPL. The IPL, or in its full form the Indian Premier League, started off in 2008 and is now in its seventh year. The history of the tournament is complex and Machiavellian. T20 cricket is much loved now and has become almost synonymous with India but it started as a filler and, like the 50 overs and 10 overs game, was begat in England. The English and Wales Cricket Board used to host the Benson and Hedges Cup which ended in 2002 and needed another one-day competition to fill its place. The cricketing authorities were looking to boost the game’s popularity with the younger generation in response to dwindling crowds and reduced sponsorship. It was intended to deliver fast-paced, exciting cricket accessible to thousands of fans who were put off by the longer versions of the game and T20 cricket was invented. The overseas cricketers playing in various counties picked up the game and by 2005 there was enough interest to start international games. The first match was on February 17, 2005 when Australia defeated New Zealand by 44 runs at Eden Park in Auckland. India was late to the party and did not play an international T20 till December 1, 2006. In fact, the Board of Control for Cricket in India (BCCI) took a rather dim view of the proceedings including the 2007 T20 World Cup which was derided by one BCCI official starchily asked that if there were 10 over matches will they have a world cup on that too? Of course, all this was before Misbahul Haq played that shot in the final and changed the face of world cricket. A world cup win and India was awash with love for T20 cricket. A media company setup the Indian Cricket League which promised to take away revenue from BCCI who promptly banned it and started the IPL in 2008. Thus, in a span of a few months, India went from T20 sceptics to standard bearers and now, we have a yearly tournament that for all the colour and glamour is at its core a sporting take on the Lucky Irani Circus. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x17ukbu_last-over-of-t20-final-wc-2007_sport[/embed] The IPL has so far seen umpteen sixes and close games but also scandals and charges of spot fixing and corruption. For the past few months, headlines in newspapers about IPL results have juxtaposed next to ones announcing the latest investigation into its sordid workings. The previous head of the BCCI, Narayanaswami Srinivasan, was removed from his post due to charges of illegal betting in IPL matches and his son-in-law is currently in jail for the same. The man behind the IPL, the once-mighty Lalit Modi, was fired in 2010 over ‘alleged acts of individual misdemeanours’ and was officially barred from participating in the affairs of the Board, the IPL and any other committee of the BCCI. The IPL has also faced sexual harassment accusations from cheer leaders and three franchises Deccan Chargers, Pune Warriors and Kochi Tuskers, have been taken off the roster for mismanaging their affairs. Cricketers have been charged with fixing and one of the main concerns for hosting the first leg of current instalment in UAE was the fear that there will be more match fixing and illegal betting. [embed width="620"]http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x1asoem_no-cheerleaders-in-ipl-7_sport[/embed] One could argue that cricket itself is besmirched with charges of corruption. Be that as it may, cricket is, or at least used to be, governed by a set of rules that were agreed upon by members of the ICC. The BCCI first forced IPL into the international calendar and then on the basis of immense financial strength went to change the system itself. As the juggernaut rolls on, we see things like the ‘Big Three’ and new-fangled power constructs, all which will eventually kill off the golden goose, the fan base that keeps the ball rolling. These issues could be tolerated, if not condoned, if it were not for the inanity of it all. How many times can you enjoy the sight of a batsman pummelling a hapless bowler on a pancake pitch that shines like a mirror under lights to the accompaniment of cacophonous music? The fact is that the IPL offers nothing but shoddy cricket and no self-aware cricketer could fool himself into thinking that it is anything but a self-pleasuring exercise. Compare it to the Kerry Packer’s World Series Cricket (WSC) and you will see the difference. WSC had the best players from across the world compete against each other in a series of fierce contests of test and limited overs cricket. It was a great learning experience and several cricketers including Imran Khan have made statements about how it helped them hone their skills. It was also a great innovator and gave the cricketing world coloured clothing, night cricket and improved the players’ employment conditions. IPL adds nothing fresh and the only thing it can be credited with are inflated bank accounts and egos. The last point is crucial. Players perform well in the IPL and build up their reputations only to see them fail on the international arena. Naturally, when international players go against local ones they do well, a classic case being the IPL’s marquee star Chris Gayle. In the IPL, his batting average stands at a Bradmanesque 48.93 but drops to 32.6 in international matches. Take recent performances and the difference becomes even starker. Since 2013, Gayle has played 11 international games with one half century and scored at an average of 23 even as he decimates all and sundry from April to June. The case of other players is even more obvious. Kieron Pollard looms large over the IPL but has all but disappeared from the international scene and never could live up to his reputation. In terms of teams, there is also no correlation between exposure to the IPL and international performances. Since the start of international T20 matches, India, the host country and chief beneficiary, has played 52 international matches with a winning rate of 59.80 per cent. One would expect that a country with dozens of players getting yearly IPL experience would be dominating the sport but the result is actually worse, albeit marginally, than Pakistan’s which has played 82 matches, most not even on home turf, and has a winning rate of 60.97 per cent in spite of having its players locked out of the IPL since 2010. Pakistan’s case is unique as there are glaring inconsistencies. Pakistanis can be coaches, commentators, studio analysts, and umpires. The only thing they cannot do is play unless they have dual British citizenship. So the conclusion is that IPL does nothing for development of skills or the game itself except fill the coffers of a few and provide mundane and mindless distraction for some. The organisers have no appreciation of the nuances, finesse and tradition associated with the beautiful game. Sixes used to be celebrations of power, a mind game for the batsmen and a foray into the other team’s fort. After five hundred of them does anyone even notice? Does anyone really care where Delhi Daredevils beat Hyderabad Sun Risers? Quick, who won the 2012 IPL trophy or was player of the tournament? The long pause says it all. Business thrives in the subcontinent because of the appeals of spectacle, not sport. IPL is just that – a mind-boggling spectacle dressed up in cricketing gear. And even in this garb, it is at best a cheap Bollywood extravaganza and at worst a soap opera of flailing men and gyrating females. With the latter, one at least has the comfort that it will at last end in a happily ever after. Seeing the IPL trudging along with the pace of a snail crawling on molasses it seems my cricket exile will force me into the arms another sport. Tennis anyone?


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